PARATHAS, PONGAL & PINNI: INDIA’S SEASONAL FEASTS

While growing up, many of us remember the onset of winter as a time of much excitement. As last year’s woollies emerged from a long hibernation, joyous discoveries were made. We spent hours fashioning hideaways with blankets unearthed from linen cupboards. But most of all, winters were synonymous with afternoons on sunny terraces, savouring seasonal favourites….piping hot Mooli Parathas (whole wheat flour flatbread filled with a spiced mixture of grated radish), sweet Gajar Halwa (grated carrots slow-cooked in milk and ghee) and tangy Kanji (a fermented drink made from black carrots, mustard seeds and spices). Fast forward a few decades, and these cherished rituals remain unchanged.

As temperatures dip in the land of ‘heat and dust’, our market stalls transform into treasure troves of winter specials. Think crunchy carrots, crisp spinach, hearty radishes, and the robust cauliflower. Kitchens across the country bubble with familiar sights, smells and tastes. Every home celebrates the season with its own culinary traditions and unique flavours. From spicy snacks to steaming bowls and sizzling curries to heartwarming sweets, regional diversity mirrors India’s rich tapestry of culinary heritage.

In the chilly landscape of Kashmir, the air is fragrant with hearty shorbas (soups) brimming with mutton or veggies. Punjab welcomes winter with the robust duo of Sarson Ka Saag (mustard greens) and Makki Di Roti (cornmeal flatbread). Lucknow’s Awadhi kitchens craft the timeless Nihari, a meaty delight slow-cooked overnight that promises a morning feast with fluffy puris (deep-fried Indian bread). Rajasthan showcases its millet bounty through Baajre ka Raab, a wholesome porridge crafted from millet powder. Varanasi’s ancient lanes tempt foodies with Daulat ki Chaat (sweet clouds of churned milk, cream, khoya, and dry fruits). In Northeast India, people cook Eromba, a winter dish of fermented bamboo shoots, indigenous herbs, and spices. Gujarat’s dining tables feature Undhiyu (a symphony of mixed veggies, spices, and ghee). South India relishes Pongal (a hearty mix of freshly harvested rice and lentils seasoned with black pepper, cumin, and ghee). In Kerala, the season’s flavours are the comforting Kadamba Kootu (mixed vegetable stew) and tangy Dappalam (vegetable curry with yoghurt).

From neighbourhood grocery shops to departmental stores, there is an abundance of traditional winter sweets made of sesame seeds and jaggery. Shaped into round balls (Til Laddoo), flattened into brittle sheets (Chikki and Gajak) or formed into flat discs (Revdi), these crunchy delicacies are not just rich in nutrients, immune-boosting qualities and digestive benefits but also generate internal heat. Sweet shops flaunt trays filled with Pinni (dense round balls of wheat flour, ghee, jaggery, and nuts), Badam Halwa (made with almonds, ghee, sugar, and flavoured with cardamom), Gond Ladoo (made of edible gum, wheat flour, ghee, sugar, and a mixture of nuts and spices) and Nolen Gur (creamy rice pudding infused with the distinctive flavor of date palm jaggery).

From North to South and East to West, foodie fervour remains a common theme nationwide. We shop for seasonal sweets, exchange time-tested recipes with friends and savour seasonal dishes at every social gathering. Winter is about the warmth of shared meals and the nostalgia of familiar tastes. It is about celebration of the diverse tastes that make up India’s extraordinary culinary culture.
* Rajeev & Rohit Kohli, Creative Travel at rkohli@creative.travel