Thursday, 18 January 2024

Brisbane Swallows the Universe. A 48 Hour Guide to Brisbane in the Footsteps of Boy Swallows Universe

Brisbane will come under the global spotlight when the Netflix production of the smash hit novel, Boy Swallows Universe, starts streaming on Netflix in Australia tonight. Fans of the yarn can get a glimpse into the world of Eli Bell and 1980s Brisbane by following this 48-hour "Brisbane Swallows the Universe" style of getaway.

Filmed in Brisbane and surrounds with the support of the Queensland Government through Screen Queensland, the eight-part series is a tale about Eli Bell, a curious teenager who finds good in a complicated world that includes a convicted murderer as a babysitter, a heroin dealer Dad, and a junkie mum. The series stars Simon Baker (The Mentalist) as Robert Bell and Travis Fimmel (Vikings and Black Snow) as Lyle.

Set against a fabricated plot (incidentally based on the real-life events of its author), the series brings 1980s Brisbane to life, adding twists and turns to the city's unhurried bayside gems and gritty suburban haunts. Fans of the smash hit yarn can get a glimpse into the world of Eli Bell and 1980s Brisbane with this 48-hour getaway.

Saturday – Brisbane City Haunts.

10:15 am: Start at the end, Brisbane City Hall.

Brisbane City Hall
Join a free guided Clock Tower Tour (every 15 minutes from 10:15am – 4:45pm) and ride Brisbane's oldest working cage lift to the top of Brisbane City Hall for epic skyline views. At the eighth floor is a giant analogue clock and the very spot where Eli confronts his arch enemy in the novel's nail-biting (or is that finger-chopping) finale.

If time allows, tuck into some local history and opt for a High Tea at the Shingle Inn on the ground floor of City Hall. First opened in 1936, Shingle Inn is arguably one of Brisbane's much-loved eateries thanks to wood panelled venues and Sunshine City memories. (Shingle Inn opens Tues – Sat 9.00am – 3.00pm).

12:00 noon. Head west for flavours of the east

Nearby is Roma Street Station. Jump on a west bound train to the place where Boy Swallows Universe first begins. Welcome to the multi-cultural suburb of Darra, home to a stew of gloriously delicious Vietnamese restaurants that undoubtedly spiced up the life of Eli Bell. Not far from the small weatherboard cottages with their big backyards are three noteworthy eateries: Try the Kim Khanh, Van Vietnamese or the Que Huong Restaurant. Eagle eyed viewers will note that the latter was chosen as a location for one of the Netflix scenes.

4.30pm Brisbane Crime Time

If you scratched the surface of Fortitude Valley in the 70s and 80s – well before Australia's sunshine capital earned its tag as a new world city – chances are you would have found some murky undertones. Just as Boy Swallows Universe reveals Brisbane's grimier side, the Moonlight State Fortitude Valley Crime Tour exposes the city's seedier secrets over a two-hour walking tour held every Saturday afternoon. During the tour, local crime writer Jack Sim will share tales about Brisbane's illegal brothels, rooftop casinos and scandalous law enforcement transgressions. He is also an expert on Boggo Road Jail, the notorious high-security prison from which Eli (and Trent's) babysitter once escaped.

While in The Valley, swing by The Tivoli, a popular live music venue that has been rocking Brisbane for decades. The Tivoli was also used as a back drop for one of the Netflix scenes.

7.00pm Riverside dining

Brisbane
Dine at the elegant Stanley Restaurant at Howard Smith Wharves. Technically speaking, Stanley is not part of the novel, but the Cantonese Restaurant overlooking the Brisbane River is reputed to be the author Trent Dalton's favourite diner.

10.00pm Sleep Easy

Hit the pillow at Hotel Indigo, a transformed riverfront hotel that opened in mid 2022 and is jam-packed with original artworks referencing the city's history, people and streetscapes. There's even a 16-storey mural on the side of the hotel by artist 'Blends' featuring a blue wren – a reference to Boy Swallows Universe.

Sunday – A Day on the Bay.

8.00am Brisbane Bayside

Rise early and head 40km north to Redcliffe, the site of Brisbane's first penal settlement and a booming seaside suburb. This friendly peninsular is a hive of activity on Sunday mornings when the Redcliffe Farmers and Artisan's Market kicks into gear from 8.00am. The markets are just a jive away from the BeeGees Way – an upbeat shrine to Brisbane greatest boy band ever, and possibly the only 'local' blokes more famous than Trent Dalton.

In Redcliffe, you can do as Eli did and hire a scooter or a bike (electric if you will) at Fun Times. Then cruise along the seafront parade all the way to the old Hornibrook Bridge where keen anglers can be found casting a line. In the novel, this is Eli's fave fishing place and the spot where he met up with his (and the author's) beloved babysitter, the convicted murderer, Slim Halliday.

If you really love aquatic adventures, take a charter fishing boat out with Brisbane Big Cat or jump on board Brisbane Whale Watching and come face to face with some of the 40,000 Humpback Whales that make a beeline right past the bay every year from July until November. These tours have nothing to do with the novel, nor the series, but it's a great way to experience Brisbane today.

6.00pm Fresh-catch dining

There's a long list of restaurants lining the Scarborough foreshore, but locals know that the best place for catch-of-the-day seafood, is the stuff that comes straight off the trawler. Head to Tempest (locals will know it as Morgans) to peel a fresh prawn or munch on a Moreton Bay Bug as the sun goes down.

8.00pm Stay on the Bay

A few clicks south of Redcliffe is the striking Sebel Brisbane Margate Beach, a tranquil Brisbane retreat that makes the most of the outdoors and Moreton Bay views. Walk along the beachfront, take to the cycling paths, bob around in the bay (the beaches and lagoon are perfect for kids) or just kick back and soak up the ocean views from your hotel balcony. You can bet Eli Bell would have loved to experience this.

Monday – Back to Work

On your way back to the city, take a detour off the (Inner City Bypass) ICB to Campbell Street in Bowen Hills until you come to a no-nonsense 1960s orange brick factory that is home to Queensland's Courier Mail. This is the newspaper that Eli set his heart on joining. Jinx! So did author Trent Dalton. If you pop your head into reception, you may just be lucky enough to spot Trent filing his next big story.
* Tags: #Queensland, #brisbane, #Boy Swallows Universe
* Tourism and Events Queensland https://www.queensland.com/
* Shelley Winkel at shelley.winkel@queensland.com

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