The
stars were aligned in perfect formation for me when The Kauai Adventure
Club announced a hike beyond Mahaulepu Beach to Kipu Kai. Of all the
epic Kauai hikes, this is a trek beyond the well traveled scenic south
shore trail and it was held on a weekday when most responsible people
are working.
Shipwrecks
beach, adjacent to the Grand Hyatt Kauai, is a convenient starting
point. There is ample parking, clean restrooms and water, all important
elements to a great Kauai hike. It's also an opportunity to meetup,
share an introduction which is usually framed like, 'Oh I have seen you
around the island for years...." Manfred, who was leading the group is a
cautious guide who leaned towards the cold reality check of what the
hike entailed. "Better to be honest about the trail than to gloss it
over as a cake walk", he warned.
We
decided to drive to the end of the beach and begin our journey. All of
us had hiked the Mahaulepu Trail on a number of occasions and if we were
to include an additional three miles of albeit epic coastline views. We
may smack up against the dreaded 6pm gate closure. A note of warning,
be aware that Grove Farm Company controls the land surrounding the beach
and closes the only access gate promptly at 6pm and will not reopen
until 6 am. You do not want to get your car corralled for the evening,
it could be a long walk back to the hotel.
Brisk
trade winds greeted us when we left the shady protection of the
ironwoods. The heat of the sun was hardly noticeable as cool winds
pushed us along and we could see Pu'u Pihakapu in the distance. Walking
along horse trails and then goat trails we pushed on each at a pace that
reflected our own inner thoughts.
Horse
trails, friends, are wide and well trampled, sprinkled with processed
vegetative gifts to keep you from straying off course. Their shear
weight over time pulverizes the soil and weeds creating a powdery
cushioned path ideal for walking. Goat trails however, meander in fickle
paths, purposefully misleading. Taking you on a journey that can lead
you astray and before you realize it the narrow trail you have been
following suddenly disappears. They course around angry shrubbery that
pokes and slices unprotected legs. I learned quickly, never trust a
goat.
We
stopped occasionally to adjust our bearings, take photos, and gingerly
sidestep the dagger like thorns of the kiawe bush.
Kiawe, or Prosopis pallida is a legume tree more
commonly known as mesquite, a native of Colombia, it is considered a
noxious weed throughout Hawaii.
Our
goal was to look down upon the seldom accessible part of the island,
the seaward side of Mt. Haupu where the coastal valley known as Kipu Kai
sits nestled between Lihue and Poipu. With over two miles of beach this
area was privately owned by John T. Waterhouse and prior to his death
in 1984 had bequeathed the area to the State of Hawaii. It is currently a
working cattle ranch and Mr. Waterhouse's bequest was that the State
would leave it as a nature and wildlife preserve. Its most recent claim
to fame is in the recent film, The Descendants. I fielded many calls from well traveled Kauai friends who saw the film and asked where on the island was that scene shot.
We
reached the saddle of Pu'u Pihakapu by 12.30 and had a friendly lunch
just gazing at the verdant valley with its many shades of olive green.
They contrasted soothingly with the blues and aquas of the ocean against
the white sand border of the beach.
It
was difficult tearing ourselves away from a view that presented us with
changing perspectives of Kipu Kai. Initiated by cotton like clouds
pushed by trade winds. Bullying them against the mountain range blocking
the sun’s rays that resulted in deeper shades of green in the valley at
our feet.
The journey back was eventful... but more later.
Kauai hikes are a great way to spend the day. Let us know how you plan to spend your time here on the island.
*Written by Gust Writer Joe Sylvester. Joe has lived in Kauai, Hawaii
for the past 31 years he owns and operates Turtle Cove Suites in the resort community of Poipu.
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