Tuesday 24 October 2023

The “ndocciata” festival of Agnone lights up Christmas Eve

Get ready to live the most entrancing experience you could imagine.

Looking for a unique Christmas experience in Italy? For centuries the winter festive period has been a time for fire rituals with some of the most exciting including large outdoor bonfires. These fires are thought to purge the community of the year’s sins and evils, and in the Italian region of Molise, a unique festival “ndocciata” takes place in the town of Agnone.

Recognised as an event of UNESCO Intangible Heritage, on Christmas Eve at sunset, the ‘ndocciata’ sees locals carrying large hand-crafted torches, lighting up the night in a fiery procession through the town before the torches are burned together on a massive bonfire.

Warm dancing flames spread a glow of light, illuminating the dark of night. Light in moving poetry meandering in obscurity, sparks of a new light seeming to hover in the air to the sound of ringing bells.

This is part of the "Ndocciata" festival which takes place in Agnone, a Molise village known for its thousand year old production of bells.

The origin of the traditional fires that "ignite" on Christmas Eve is lost in the midst of time. Probably initiated from pagan rites and celebrated on the winter solstice to light up the longest night of the year. It was revived by Christianity to celebrate the Light that shines in the darkness. Majestic torches then, most likely also served to illuminate the path of the peasants who went from rural areas to the village to attend the midnight Christmas mass.

It is a recognised Unesco Intangible Heritage. This year, on December 10th and 24th at sunset, the bearers of the flaming torches of the 5 Agnonese districts, will display the 'ndocce, built with fir wood arranged in a radial pattern on their shoulders. They will parade through the city dressed in black hoods or hats and peasant clothes, accompanied by the sound of the bells.

An ancient tradition that awakens the senses and arouses emotions that are intangible if not experienced: the eyes are captivated by the wild flickering of the flames, the mind travels to ancient times with the chiming bells. A pungent smell of resin, given off by burning wood, fills the atmosphere while a continuous, dancing glow illuminates and warms our faces, in the cold winter evening.

* ENIT - Italian National Tourist Board, 140 William St, East Sydney, NSW 2011, Australia

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