A walking tour of Bangkok’s Lower Silom

Chong Nongsi skywalk at the tail end of Lower Silom

Shutterstock.com / Usa Pakaranodom

Artist and designer Matthew Campbell Laurenza takes us through the vibrant gem shops, off-the-beaten-track eateries and art galleries of this surprising corner of the Thai capital

Topped and tailed by Lumpini Park and the Chao Phraya River respectively, the Silom area of Bangkok has much more to offer than tourist-magnet Patpong Night Market and copious office spaces.

Artist, sculptor and CEO of jewelry brand MCL Design, Matthew Campbell Laurenza has clocked around 25 years in this quirky lower Silom neighborhood. He first moved to the area to establish his showroom and workshop just a short walk from the Jewelry Trade Center. Since then, the whole area has undergone much development, with new venues constantly surfacing.

Matthew has been an artist and jewelry
designer based in Lower Silom for over 25 years

“Walking around the city keeps my creative juices flowing. I absorb the city vibe and it’s still inspiring, as it’s continually evolving!” Modern architectural marvels, including the vertigo-inducing Mahanakorn cube tower, sit comfortably alongside historic temples, such as Wat Sri Maha Mariamman Indian temple – known locally as Wat Khaek – in the perfect juxtaposition of old and new, both worthy of attention.

From his base on Decho Road, which straddles Surawong and Silom, the fast-talking, swift-walking Matthew ducks in and out of alleyways, knowing exactly where he’s going. Whether sourcing food, gems, production materials, or attending meetings, most of what he needs is within walking distance. “My days tend to revolve around food and work. I don’t cook, but I don’t need to, living here. There’s so much, across the entire social spectrum, from street food to fine dining,” shares Matthew.

Specialty coffee and street food

Early in the morning, Matthew stops by Monochrome, one of the area’s many craft coffeeshops, decked out in local black and white photography, on Decho Road. Open from 7.30am, it’s a great place to chill or start fielding calls and making plans, with a hot or cold brew.

With food on his mind, Matthew mentions Silom Cooking School, next door. Classes run daily at the school, which is ideally located close to Soi Prachum Market. Just a few blocks west, on Silom Soi 20, Soi Prachum is brimming with street food and market stalls. During the week, till around 3pm, it’s crammed with locals, who appreciate great affordable food, fueling the workday. “This area is fascinating,” Matthew says. “Within a tiny vicinity you have a mosque, an Indian temple and a missionary, living harmoniously side by side, blessed with an abundance of food in between.”

Opposite Soi 20 is Thanon Pan, next to Wat Khaek, where people make offerings to Ganesh and other deities. Matthew often grabs a breakfast curry from the wonderful selection at Krua Aroy Aroy (meaning “very tasty kitchen”), open from 9am. His other favorite dish here won’t win awards for presentation, but is outstanding on taste: khao kha moo or pork in gravy over rice is a feast for just THB60. “I love the simplicity – no frills, just authentic, consistently great eats,” says Matthew.

Wat Khaek or Sri Maha Mariamman or Maha Uma
Devi is one of many houses of worship in Lower Silom
SHUTTERSTOCK.COM / HAPPYCREATOR

Another local tip, he adds, is the ITF Tower food market, at the Silom/Chong Nonsi intersection, open on weekdays and catering to local office workers. “I always make a beeline for Bibi Khao Man Gai (chicken-rice) or Guaytiaw Tom Yum Sukhothai for their noodles with pork balls in broth – a steal at around THB30–60 per bowl. The turnover means food is always fresh, and the earlier you get here the better, as these places sell out every day by 3pm.” When eating there, he first grabs coffee at Curve Coffee Roaster around the corner, where the barista, Ning, knows his order by heart.

Ning of Curve Coffee Roasters is one of many friendly shop-keepers in the area. 

Where art collides with machinery shops

Suitably sated, he suggests heading towards Charoenkrung Road and the arts district: “Don’t be afraid to get lost and take wrong turns. You’ll get to see so many traditional shophouses and quaint antiques stores that you’d miss if you fly by in a tuk-tuk or taxi.” On foot, you get a sense of Bangkok’s history turning down small alleyways, seeing machinery shops piled high with parts, and baskets woven by hand. Matthew is a huge proponent for preservation of traditional craft, with all of his jewelry handcrafted by generational artisans. “People here are sustaining their craft and living simply.”

A brief look on Charoenkrung Soi 32 reveals stellar street art, including works by Thailand’s famous Alex Face, before entering Warehouse 30, an ultra-contemporary space complete with coffeeshop, streetwear and art. Aurum Gallery is brimming with exciting international and local contemporary urban artworks. Exit right onto Soi 30, where even more art, design and antiques fill shopfronts, including Lek Gallery Art and ATT 19.

Street art by Bangkok’s iconic artist Alex Face in Lower Silom

With such contrasting art, design creativity and life, it’s easy to see why Matthew remains so inspired and entrenched in Lower Silom. Of course, he’s hungry again, and sets pace back towards Silom Road. “I know another great place you’ll love,” he assures.

Itching to explore the alleys of Lower Silom? Fly to Bangkok with Thai Airways.

* TEXT: NIKKI BUSUTTIL