Îles-de-la-Madeleine, Quebec - Fields of White Snow

A guest of Chateau Madelinot photographs a baby seal.
The seal’s fluffy white coat indicates it is less than two weeks old.
DOMINI CLARK/THE GLOBE AND MAIL

Winter conditions may be harsh here, but the opportunity to see a seal pup up close will warm you up

The North Atlantic in winter is a world of monochrome. Fields of white snow replace lush green landscapes. Blue waters turn inky black. Seen from above, ocean ice floes look like huge slabs of Carrara marble. It is a harsh land, yet it contains some of the cutest critters on Earth: baby harp seals.

Contrary to popular belief, it is illegal in Canada to kill the white puffy seal pups known as les blanchons. But it is possible to take a selfie with one.

In the weeks of late February and early March, seals crawl onto the ice floes around Quebec’s Îles-de-la-Madeleine to give birth. For more than 35 years, the Château Madelinot has been taking guests out to meet them. The babies are at peak fluff for about 12 days, when they begin to molt and grow sleeker fur, so it’s a narrow window of opportunity.

From the hotel, it’s a 45-minute helicopter ride – maximum of six guests in each chopper – out to the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, about 150 kilometres north of Prince Edward Island. Onboard, the excitement is palpable, but the deafening roar of flight (foam earplugs are provided) means there isn’t much to do but smile and take pictures out the window.

Upon landing, we are pretty much free to walk around. Standing on a massive piece of sea ice in the middle of winter is, however, a freezing, blustery experience (even while wearing the provided survival suit), so the hotel’s guides quickly lead people to the seals. We have a little more than an hour here; this is not the time for nature lessons or mindless wanderings.

Almost immediately we spot a mother and her pup resting not far from the water’s edge. Mom, about two metres long and weighing about 100 kilograms, watches as her offspring lolls around.

Seeing the seals up close, the thrill of anticipation is replaced by a wave of serenity. I expected the adults, at least, to be frightened of us, but mom appears unperturbed by the gawking audience. Her trust melts my heart. The interaction is a reminder that life goes on in even the harshest of landscapes. I imagine what other wonders are close but unseen in the icy waters beyond.

The pup, now lying on its back and holding its little paws up, looks like an Arctic version of an otter and is so adorable I could watch it for hours.

But not far off is another pair: A mother swims as her newborn perches on nearby ice. The baby is a yellowcoat – named for the colour of its fur, I learn the next day at the local Seal Interpretation Centre – and so can’t be more than three days old. Mom keeps a close watch, her head popping up out of the gulf frequently. I know it’s instinct driving her attentiveness, not love; within two weeks she’ll be gone, leaving the pup to fend for itself. Still, it’s hard not to anthropomorphize. I feel like I’m intruding on a private family moment.

Finally, a guide spots a picture-perfect blanchon. It’s a cotton ball come to life and, importantly, alone; the Canadian Fisheries Act dictates that you cannot get between a mother and her pup or closer than nine metres to an adult seal.

Visitors look for baby seals on an ice f
low in the Gulf of St Lawrence.
DOMINI CLARK/THE GLOBE AND MAIL

People take their selfies, snuggling beside the puffball. It’s unclear where mom is, and as the little one makes what sound like increasingly plaintive cries, I wish she would appear. Another guest offers to take my picture with the pup but I pass on the photo op, choosing instead to stay a few metres back and make use of my zoom lens.

Still, I do not begrudge anyone their moment of cuteness. Many guests travelled from Japan just for this. I watch as grown men and little girls alike shriek with happiness. Their faces radiate pure joy and such warmth, I’m surprised the ice beneath us doesn’t melt.

How to get there
The regional airline Pascan flies to Îles-de-la-Madeleine Airport (YGR) via Quebec City.

What to bring

A Mustang survival flotation suit is provided, but you still need to pack a tuque, multiple layers (merino wool works great), waterproof insulated boots with grip and gloves or mittens.

Where to stay
Château Madelinot is the sole provider of baby seal tours. Packages start at $2,600 based on double occupancy and include accommodation for three nights, meals (breakfast or all-inclusive available), one helicopter tour (additional trips may be purchased at an extra charge) and airport transfer.

*BY DOMINI CLARK