Taste of the Tribes: Where the Future of Asian Fine Dining Returns to Its Roots

In a culinary landscape often defined by trends, five visionary chefs across Asia are quietly reshaping fine dining by turning their gaze inward—toward the roots of their land, their people, and their ancestral foodways. Within the Secret Tables collection by Secret Retreats, these restaurants—Akame in Taiwan, Dewakan in Malaysia, Nén in Vietnam, Oitom in Sabah, and Nusa Gastronomy Jakarta in Indonesia—collectively embody what we call the “Taste of the Tribes.”

More than just a movement, Taste of the Tribes is a philosophy—one that embraces indigenous wisdom, local produce, and traditional techniques passed through generations, while presenting them through the lens of contemporary gastronomy.

This year, the culinary world has taken note. Both Akame and Dewakan were named among Tatler Dining’s Best Restaurants 2025, a recognition that underscores their role as pioneers of progressive local cuisine. But beyond accolades, it is their shared respect for culture and nature that truly unites them with their peers—Nén, Oitom, and Nusa Gastronomy —in redefining how we taste, remember, and preserve the essence of our tribes.

At Akame, Chef Alex Peng draws inspiration from Taiwan’s Rukai heritage, combining the primal art of fire cooking with forest-foraged ingredients, each dish echoing a dialogue between the land and its people. Dewakan, led by Chef Darren Teoh, celebrates Malaysia’s indigenous ingredients with an elegance that is both intellectual and deeply emotional, telling stories of forgotten plants and overlooked flavors.

In Danang, Nén reimagines Vietnamese traditions through Chef Summer Le’s refined minimalism, while Oitom in Sabah expresses the Borneo spirit through smoky, grounded flavors that speak of the jungle and the sea. Meanwhile, Nusa Gastronomy pays homage to Indonesia’s vast culinary heritage, distilling the archipelago’s ancient recipes and spices into a fine dining narrative that is as soulful as it is sophisticated.

Together, these five tables remind us that cuisine is not only about taste—it is about identity, memory, and belonging. They are, each in their own way, preserving the past while shaping the future of Asian gastronomy.

A Shared Ethos: Returning to the Source

The Taste of the Tribes is not a trend — it is a reclamation. These five restaurants, each part of the Secret Tables by Secret Retreats, stand for a philosophy that honours people before products, and provenance before presentation.

Their menus are not designed merely to impress; they are written to remember. To remember who we are, where we come from, and how we connect to the earth through food.

Whether it is Akame’s mountain smoke, Dewakan’s native herbs, Oitom’s coastal foraging, Nén’s ancestral fermentations, or NUSA’s island storytelling — each of these tables carries the same message: the future of fine dining lies not in reinvention, but in reconnection.
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About Secret Tables by Secret Retreats

Secret Tables is a curated collection of Asia’s most distinctive restaurants — places where cuisine, culture, and community meet. Each member shares a deep commitment to local sourcing, sustainable gastronomy, and the preservation of culinary heritage. Through initiatives like Taste of the Tribes, Secret Tables celebrates Asia’s authentic voices, fostering a dialogue between tradition and innovation.

For more information, visit www.secret-retreats.com.

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