Nison-in: Busy Arashiyama’s Secret Mountain of Fire

Visiting Arashiyama in autumn will be one of two things: incredible, or infuriating. 

Unfortunately, Arashiyama’s exceptional autumnal beauty makes it a victim of its own success. 

The area was always popular with Japanese and foreign tourists alike, but it’s now necessary to dig deeper into the district in order to find seasonal magic with fewer crowds. 

Luckily, the little-known temple of Nison-in holds the key to a relaxed leaf-viewing experience.

Nison-in: inexplicably underrated!

In recent years, Arashiyama’s popularity has arguably become its greatest detractor. Only five years ago, visitors could still walk around the district in the autumn season with plenty of room to spare. Better still, weekdays were far less crowded and made an ideal time to view the area’s famous seasonal colours. However, in 2018 and 2019, the number of visitors reached unmanageable peaks. The district’s central roads became gridlocked with pedestrians and popular sites such as the Bamboo Forest came to a standstill.

The general habit of tourists to avoid wandering from the most popular paths is somewhat baffling. However, for those willing to walk even as little as ten extra minutes, the payoffs can be immensely rewarding. Nison-in is one such prize. A Buddhist temple built into a mountainside, it is the final resting place of many of Japan’s most cherished historical figures. Additionally, the temple itself houses two sacred Buddhist statues; ‘Ni-son-in’ [二尊院] means ‘hall of two images.’

A mountain, aflame.

From its entryway, Nison-in’s appearance is deceptive. A long ‘san-do‘ (walkway) lies behind a huge, dark wooden gate. A friendly member of staff mans a small hut, where visitors will pay an entry fee of ¥500. He tells you (likely in Japanese) that when you enter the temple grounds, you can ring the huge temple bell three times, praying for world peace. However, most people never make it this far. They see only a long walkway that leads to a tall, plaster wall. Sadly, they often assume there’s nothing hidden behind this wall. Mistake!

Behind this wall lies a beautifully rendered and dark temple hall. Set into the mountainside, autumn trees form a brooding and fiery mantle. It is a powerful sight to see; a reminder of the depth and fortitude of Japan’s Buddhist history. Beyond, leading up and away from the central temple, stone steps stretch endlessly to the mountain’s summit. A 900 year old cemetery surrounds the stone pathways, stretching out in every direction, shaded by trees of every autumnal colour imaginable.

Nison-in has recently redesigned their website in Japanese and English, and it looks fantastic! Take a look at it here.