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| Che Chin Khor Temple.Chris Schalkx |
Few corners of the Thai capital encapsulate present-day Bangkok better than its riverside, where snazzy coffee shops bookend century-old mansions and tucked-away temples.
In recent years, the pedestrian-friendly alleys snaking between the Chao Phraya River and Charoen Krung Road have received a jolt of energy as street artists have swathed crumbling walls in kaleidoscopic art and dilapidated warehouses have gained new lives as bars and galleries.
Despite the pandemic, the riverside’s renaissance shows no signs of slowing. Opened at the end of 2020, café, bookstore, and overall creative hub Central: The Original Store on Charoen Krung Road delivers a high-design homage to one of Thailand’s largest retail groups, which started its billion-dollar empire here as a humble corner store in 1950.
And this past June saw the opening of Hong Sieng Kong, a riverside café and antiques gallery in a 200-year-old Chinese mansion, which will soon be joined by the design-centric Citizen Tea Canteen around the corner.
Eat
After leaving his Michelin-starred Nahm in 2018, Australian chef David Thompson has returned to Bangkok with Aksorn, a snug dining room on top of Central: The Original Store. Drawing on the literary theme that weaves through the building, the tasting menu changes quarterly and features dishes from Thompson’s vintage cookbook collection, including meticulously re-created curries and appetizers from the mid-twentieth century.
Three of Thompson’s former protégés have branched off with Charmgang, a neon-lit curry joint in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it alleyway off Charoen Krung Road. The interior, spearheaded by designers Saran Yen Panya and Shelley Kwok, is a quirky mishmash of Thai kitsch, with many of the furnishings for sale. The menu riffs on Thai classics less known to tourists, with dishes such as miang kham-flavored fried chicken and a fiery crab curry.
After leaving his Michelin-starred Nahm in 2018, Australian chef David Thompson has returned to Bangkok with Aksorn, a snug dining room on top of Central: The Original Store. Drawing on the literary theme that weaves through the building, the tasting menu changes quarterly and features dishes from Thompson’s vintage cookbook collection, including meticulously re-created curries and appetizers from the mid-twentieth century.
Three of Thompson’s former protégés have branched off with Charmgang, a neon-lit curry joint in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it alleyway off Charoen Krung Road. The interior, spearheaded by designers Saran Yen Panya and Shelley Kwok, is a quirky mishmash of Thai kitsch, with many of the furnishings for sale. The menu riffs on Thai classics less known to tourists, with dishes such as miang kham-flavored fried chicken and a fiery crab curry.
Drink
In the past few years, the neighborhood has welcomed more coffee shops than you can shake a chopstick at. Café-gallery Timo & Tintin is the smartest of the bunch, with a concise drink list – there’s just one coffee blend, one matcha, and an oolong tea blend from Thailand’s north – and unparalleled river views from its rooftop terrace.
Bartender-DJs mix both drinks and vinyl at Siwilai Sound Club’s second-floor Audiophile Bar, while sultry live jazz and red leather booths set the mood at the lounge downstairs.
Shop
Warehouse 30 is the riverside’s creative epicenter, home to a clutch of cafés, galleries, and indie boutiques – and a frequent site for design fairs and art walks. Seek out Horse Unit for its collection of vintage keepsakes and apparel by homegrown designers.
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| Warehouse 30 and Thai Home Industries’ fans.Chris Schalkx |
Its shimmering, gold-encrusted roofs might make it look like a temple, but Thai Home Industries is, in fact, one of Bangkok’s best addresses for picking up classic Thai souvenirs. While the artisan-made bamboo fans, pajamas, and silverware are pricier here, they will long outlast the cheaply produced versions sold at most souvenir stores.
Stay
Since 1876, the 331-room riverside Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok has served as the city’s grandest of dames. Check in for one of Bangkok’s top spas and the three-Michelin-starred French restaurant Le Normandie, and check out the hotel’s new audio tour to learn more about the neighborhood’s fascinating past. Virtuoso travelers receive breakfast daily and one lunch for two.
Thanks to its location on the Chao Phraya’s northern bank, The Peninsula Bangkok’s 370 rooms overlook central Bangkok’s glittering cityscape. This classic hotel channels bygone grace with teak floors, white-gloved waiters, and afternoon tea on silver étagères served right along the river. Virtuoso travelers receive breakfast daily and afternoon tea once during stay.
*source: Virtuoso https://www.virtuoso.com/ contact page
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