Behind the Scenes with Murano’s Glassblowers

Massimiliano Schiavon pieces.Clara Tuma

• Get to know the keepers of the Italian island’s ancient craft

In 1291, authorities moved all of Venice’s glassmaking to Murano, a small cluster of islands in the Venetian lagoon, to avoid a fire threat in Venice – and keep trade secrets confined to the area. To this day, the glass objects made in Murano are a protected art form. To visit is to immerse yourself in glassblowing and the beauty of the chandeliers, lampwork and millefiori beads, and artistically shaped vases and bowls that the island’s artisans produce.

I love any kind of behind-the-scenes photo op, and at sixth-generation glassmaker Massimiliano Schiavon, I was right there with the glassblowers, as close as I could get, the heat from the oven hitting me ruthlessly. Inside the furnace the temperature is around 1,300 degrees Fahrenheit. The room was so hot, I was afraid my camera would stop working. I felt privileged to be that close. My admiration for these artists grew even more seeing them transform pieces of color – in a few blows, twists, and cuts – into smooth, totally unique handmade objects.

Murano is much quieter than Venice, especially in the mornings and in late afternoons and evenings, when most visitors have taken the return ferry to have their dinners in Venice. I found myself almost alone there during those off-hours, with time to stroll along the quiet canals, stopping to watch the occasional motorboat go by (locals coming home!), people walking their dogs, teenagers playing soccer, and children riding their bikes. On Ponte Longo I even encountered one of the glassmaking artists I had photographed earlier, making his jogging tour through the neighborhood. Those hours were magical – unexpectedly serene. I imagine this was how Venice felt before modern-day tourism, populated just with locals, living and working there.

Murano Must-Dos
1. Don’t miss the Museo del Vetro, Murano’s glass museum. Housed in an ancient palazzo, some of its magnificent pieces date as far back as the fifteenth century.

2. Shop for glass in the showrooms of Venice’s most venerable makers – such as Barovier & Toso, Simone Cenedese, and NasonMoretti – along Rio dei Vetrai (Glassmakers’ Canal) and nearby.

3. Have a gelato or a panino farcito (stuffed sandwich) and do some boat-watching.

4. Order cicchetti (Italian tapas) and an Aperol spritz for aperitivo or enjoy spaghetti alle cozze and calamari fritti at one of the canalside restaurants.

5. Tour the Seguso glass factory (by appointment only).

*source: Virtuoso https://www.virtuoso.com/   contact page