Monday 25 May 2020

Eat & Drink Around the world in soups

Miso Soup
Soups are nothing short of versatile. Whether you prefer those served hot or cold, thick or thin, or with dollops of melted cheese and crème fraîchethere are innumerable combinations of this humble dish. We’ve put together a list of some of the world’s favourites and where to find them.

Miso soup, Japan
Miso soup is a staple of most Japanese meals, and nourishing too

Miso soup is a long-standing favourite in Japan, beloved since ancient times. Miso (fermented soy beans and rice) was introduced to Japan from China during the Asuka period (538-710). But the actual ritual of turning it into a soup didn’t pick up until the rise of the samurai society, when the custom of serving miso soup as an accompaniment to every meal began. These days, the tradition still stands and you can expect miso with most meals when in Japan. The basic ingredients usually include tofu, radishes, potatoes, wakame seaweed, miso paste and ‘dashi’ (a soup stock essential to Japanese cuisine) – though recipes vary from region to region. Slurp up this salty, savoury broth at restaurant Misogen (though any izakaya will dish up a reliable bowl, too) when you make the inevitable scramble through Tokyo Station towards Mitsui Garden Hotel Otamachi.
Bouillabaisse, France
For seafood lovers, look no further than the bubbling bouillabaisse

Along the Côte d’Azur, you’ll find bouillabaisse wherever you go. A Provençal fish dish that’s considered both a stew and a soup, it originates from Marseille. And it’s said to have come into being after local fishermen needed to find a way to use up the rockfish they were unable to sell off to restaurants or at the market. Not to be confused with soupe de poisson (a thinner fish soup also popular along the coast) or a bisque, bouillabaisse differs in the use of bony fish and a range of herbs. It’s made up of a base of seafood shells, garlic, olive oil, saffron, orange zest and tomatoes, with sizeable servings of white fish, shellfish, prawns and sometimes langoustine scooped on top. Finished with a red pepper rouille sauce and a hunk of crusty bread, this bubbling delicacy is best tried in Marseille – and Hotel Dieu is an excellent place to stay afterwards.

Laska
Laksa, Malaysia
There's a range of different laksas, so choose between sweeter or spicier

A fiery and colourful concoction, laksa can be found all across southeast Asia. Hailing from Peranakan culture, you’ll find it in an endless number of varieties and locations, each vendor and region as proud of their own recipe as the next. At its core it’s a spicy, coconut milk-based noodle soup that often appears a deep, almost volcanic swirl of red – but even these aspects are open to change. Assam laksa has no coconut milk, and is instead made from a fish broth, with tamarind, rempeh (spicy paste) and torch ginger. Meanwhile, curry laksa (especially popular in northern Malaysia) is heavy on the coconut milk, heaped with bean curd puffs, shrimp fish sticks and is laced with searing sambal and laksa leaf. Even the noodles change, from thick rice noodles (laksa noodles) to thinner vermicelli noodles. Which variation you settle on is up to you, but each laksa is a warming celebration of the region’s core cuisine and a dish that’s earned its place as something of a cultural phenomenon. The Penang region in Malaysia is as good a place as any to try assam laksa. Stay at the Eastern & Oriental Hotel.

Borscht, Ukraine
Borscht is heavy on the beetroot which gives it its distinct pink colouring

Widely eaten throughout Eastern Europe, borscht is a beetroot-based soup famed for its pinkish red colouring. Taking its name from the Slavic word for hogweed (bursci), it’s popular in both Russia and Poland (namely white borscht). Though the most commonly cited recipe is of the Ukrainian variety – made from bone stock, beet sour (fermented beetroot juice) and sautéed vegetables. While beets serve as the foundation for this dish, helpings of garlic, shallots, coriander, clove, cayenne, sugar and yoghurt or sour cream (which gives it its signature pink hue) are mixed in and boiled. Served either hot or cold, and topped with a dollop of sour cream and dill, it’s a warming and nutritious dose of goodness. To try it, head to Kiev, where most cafés serve it in the classic Ukrainian style. Stay at MaNNA Boutique Hotel.

Clam chowder, USA
Clam chowder is often served in bread bowls, perfect for soaking up its thick consistency

Thick, creamy and undeniably comforting, clam chowder has been a mainstay in the United States since the 1700s. Appearing in New England after being allegedly introduced by the French, Nova Scotian and British settlers, it quickly developed cult status – even garnering a mention in Herman Melville’s seminal work, Moby Dick. Popular on both coasts of the USA, the New England version is a cauldron of creamy broth made up of onions, potatoes, clams and generous glugs of heavy cream. It’s the thickest of the chowders, with gooey mounds of soup to scoop up with accompanying crackers or crusty bread, which often cradles the soup as a bread bowl. Manhattan clam chowder is a worthy choice too, combining tomato and a medley of vegetables for a lighter, more colourful option. Head up to Boston – home to a fleet of chowder huts for you to choose from – and the gorgeous Godfrey Hotel.

Gazpacho
Gazpacho, Spain
When the Sevillan heat hits, locals turn to cooling Gazpacho to refresh

Served chilled but fiery (in flavour and colour), gazpacho is a staple of Spanish cuisine. While there are conflicting theories as to where the dish originated from, the general consensus is that it was in the Andalusia region of Spain. Roman soldiers who travelled through commonly carried with them a range of ingredients that form the basic makeup of gazpacho – think dried bread, garlic and vinegar. And the introduction of tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers in the 19th century helped gazpacho evolve into what it is today. Steeped in flavour, the traditional Sevillan variation is heavy on the vegetables, which are puréed into a smooth, red soup, and garnished with chopped vegetaspbles. And in some regions, topped with almonds and orange slices, or hard boiled eggs and ham (as in Córdoba). It’s best eaten on a summer’s day, so you can while away an afternoon in the Sevillan sunshine before retreating to Hotel Rey Alfonso X.

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