Saturday, 30 November 2024

Day 7 on the Mekong: Exploring Cambodia's Heartland Aboard the Toum Tiou 2

Vipassana Dhurak Buddhist Meditation Centre
Today marks Day 7 of my New Discovery Tour, offered by CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEuroper, aboard the Toum Tiou 2. It’s been an incredible journey so far, and I couldn’t wait to experience what was in store today. The ship set sail early from Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s bustling capital, and today’s itinerary promised a perfect mix of cultural immersion, natural beauty, and spiritual exploration. 

The destination was Kampong Tralach, a small village known for its rural charm and tranquil rice fields, and the ancient former capital, Oudong, rich in historical and religious significance. With a clear sky above and a gentle breeze on the Mekong, I knew I was in for another unforgettable day.

Morning: Sailing from Phnom Penh to Kampong Tralach

Sailing away from Phnom Penh
Our morning began with a leisurely breakfast as the Toum Tiou 2 drifted away from the dock in Phnom Penh. The Tonle Sap river, wide and powerful, stretched out in both directions, flowing serenely past the boat. I sat on the deck, taking in the beauty of the riverbanks, dotted with traditional wooden houses and small villages. The gentle motion of the ship, combined with the rhythmic sounds of the river, created a peaceful atmosphere.

local boat on river
As we moved farther from the city, the landscape shifted dramatically. The bustling urban surroundings of Phnom Penh gave way to tranquil rural scenes—lush green fields, swaying palm trees, and distant hills on the horizon. The Toum Tiou 2 is a comfortable and elegant ship, offering a sense of calm and luxury as we cruised along. I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of privilege, sailing through this beautiful and often overlooked part of Southeast Asia, where the peaceful rhythm of life felt a world away from the city’s fast pace.

Riverside houses on stilts
The morning’s cruise gave us plenty of time to relax and observe local life unfolding along the riverbanks. Fishermen in small boats cast their nets, children played near the water, and women in colorful clothes carried baskets of goods on their heads. The ship’s crew was friendly and attentive, offering drinks and making sure everyone was comfortable as we sailed along the river, heading toward Kampong Tralach.

Kampong Tralach
By mid-morning, we arrived at our first stop, Kampong Tralach, a small village in Kampong Chhnang Province. This area is known for its picturesque rice fields and peaceful rural life. It felt like we were stepping back in time, to a place where life has remained unchanged for generations.

Excursion to Kampong Tralach

Oxen
As the ship docked, we disembarked and were ready to explore. I was excited to learn that we had a few options for how we would get to our destination, the Wat Kampong Tralach Leu, a temple perched in the middle of the rice fields. The experience promised to be truly unique, and I couldn't wait to get started.

There were three options for transportation: ox carts, bicycles, and tuk-tuks. After a brief moment of consideration, I chose the ox cart ride. I’ve always been fascinated by traditional modes of transportation, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to experience Cambodia’s rural life up close.

Oxen cart
The ox carts were beautifully simple, each one pulled by a pair of strong oxen, their slow, deliberate movements creating a peaceful rhythm. As we made our way through the narrow dirt paths of the village, I felt transported into another world. On either side of us, vast rice fields stretched out as far as the eye could see, their vibrant green color shimmering under the morning sun. The scent of earth and fresh vegetation filled the air, and the occasional chirping of birds added to the serenity of the scene.

Young bike riders
The ride itself was incredibly relaxing—certainly a far cry from the hustle and bustle of city life. The rhythmic clopping of the oxen’s hooves on the dirt road became a comforting, almost meditative sound, and I couldn’t help but smile as I watched local villagers go about their day. Some were working diligently in the fields, while others leisurely strolled along the paths, or riding their bicycles. It was a beautiful glimpse into the simple, yet deeply meaningful life of the Cambodian countryside, where time seemed to slow down and nature and community were deeply intertwined.

 Colourful statues
Eventually, we arrived at Wat Kampong Tralach Leu, a stunning Buddhist temple nestled amidst the sprawling rice fields. The paths were lined with trees, offering a cool and welcome shade from the midday sun. As I climbed the weathered stone steps toward the temple, I was struck by the sight of the lush, green rice paddies surrounding the area. They stretched out before me like a vast sea of color, their vibrant green hues swaying gently in the breeze, creating a peaceful and almost hypnotic scene.

Tour group on steps of Wat
The Wat Kampong Tralach Leu Pagoda, with its foundations dating back to 1672 during the turbulent Oudong Era, stands today in a serene and well-preserved state, with the current structure dating to around the 1920s. This significant religious site is not only rich in history but also unique in its setting—surrounded by a moat and built atop hefty laterite blocks, which may have originally come from an ancient structure predating even the 17th-century foundation. At the top of the steps, the temple stands peacefully, its ornate roof and intricate carvings gleaming in the sunlight. 

The site offers a glimpse into Cambodia’s rich Buddhist heritage, and as I walked around the temple grounds, I felt a deep sense of tranquility, appreciating both the peaceful atmosphere and the temple's enduring connection to the past, including its previous use as a rice barn.

Wat Kampong Tralach Leu Pagoda
Inside the temple, the air was cool and serene, infused with the delicate scent of incense. The walls are adorned with painted murals, though sadly some have deteriorated over time, particularly during the period when the temple was used as a rice storage barn. I took a few moments to sit in stillness, absorbing the tranquil atmosphere that enveloped the space, further deepening my sense of calm and connection to this sacred place

Young Monks in Wat
Two young monks in saffron robes sat quietly nearby, offering blessings to those in our group who requested them. As part of the blessing, they tied a red string around each person's wrist, a gesture that added to the temple's peaceful ambiance. The views from the temple were simply breathtaking—an expansive panorama of lush rice fields, dotted with traditional wooden houses and tall trees, all stretching out toward the distant horizon.

Ride in tuk-tuk
After spending some time at the temple, it was time to return to the boat. I decided to take a tuk-tuk back, enjoying the ride as we passed through the village. The journey was calm and picturesque, offering one last glimpse of the peaceful countryside. The entire experience had been deeply reflective, serene, and utterly beautiful.

Back on Board: Lunch and Relaxation

Lunch onboard
Once back on the Toum Tiou 2, I was ready for a delicious lunch. The onboard restaurant is a lovely space, offering air-conditioned indoor seating with plenty of room to relax and enjoy the river views.

The lunch spread was impressive, with a variety of traditional Cambodian dishes. The flavours were fresh and vibrant—the roast pork, various salads and  and the Khmer dessert among my favourites. The meal was served family-style, so there was plenty to go around, and the portions were generous. I washed it all down with a cold drink, feeling completely relaxed as we set sail once more.

Lunch Chef
As I sat back and enjoyed my meal, I thought about the contrast between life on board the Toum Tiou 2 and the rural scenes I had just witnessed. The river is truly the lifeblood of Cambodia, and it was fascinating to see how the country’s people live and work along its banks. I also reflected on the experience of visiting the temple—it was a moment of calm amidst the beauty of the countryside, and I felt deeply grateful to be part of such an immersive journey.

Afternoon: Mini-Van Journey to Oudong

Mini-van
After lunch, we left the boat and boarded an air-conditioned mini-van for the next leg of the day’s adventure: a visit to Oudong, the former capital of Cambodia. I had been looking forward to this part of the excursion, as Oudong is known for its historical significance and stunning temples.

The drive to Oudong offered me a chance to take in more of Cambodia's stunning countryside. As we journeyed, the landscape transformed once again—mountains loomed in the distance, and small villages dotted the terrain. We passed fields of rice, with farmers working alongside their water buffalo, while children waved as we drove by. The rural beauty of the area was striking, and it felt like we were moving farther away from the modern world and deeper into Cambodia's timeless heart.

Stupas on Oudong Mountain
When we arrived at Oudong, the first thing that struck me was the serenity of the place. The temples and stupas are perched atop a hill, offering sweeping panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. We began the climb up the stone steps, which, though a bit challenging in the heat, were well worth the effort. The path was shaded by trees, providing a welcome cool breeze as we ascended, and with each step, the view became more expansive. As we reached the top, the three large stupas stood before us, majestic and peaceful, overlooking the breathtaking landscape below.

Stupason Oudong Mountain
The stupas are massive structures, each housing the relics of past kings. It was humbling to be in such a sacred place, surrounded by history and spirituality. The climb was steep, but the views from the top were breathtaking. Looking out over the landscape, I could see the meandering Mekong River, the endless rice fields, and the distant mountains. It felt as though I had reached the top of the world.

Vipassana Dhurak Buddhist Centre
After exploring the stupas, we walked around the Vipassana Dhurak Buddhist Meditation Centre, a large retreat where monks practice meditation. The centre’s peaceful atmosphere was the perfect conclusion to our visit. The stillness of the place, combined with its beautiful surroundings, created an environment that felt sacred and serene. I spent some time walking around the grounds, taking in the tranquility and reflecting on the day.

Return to the Toum Tiou 2

Toum Tiou 2
After our visit to Oudong, we returned to the mini-van for the drive back to the boat. It was a quiet journey, as we all took a moment to process the day’s experiences. The trip to Oudong had been a true highlight, and I felt incredibly fortunate to have had the opportunity to explore such an important historical and spiritual site.

When we returned to the Toum Tiou 2, the ship was ready to depart Kampong Tralach and continue its journey along the river. It was time for me to relax and reflect on the amazing day I’d just experienced.

Evening: Dinner on Board

Dinner
As we set sail once again, it was the perfect time to unwind and enjoy a lovely dinner in the onboard restaurant. Our evening on the Toum Tiou 2 was a delightful culinary experience, featuring a rich variety of flavours. We began with a refreshing banana flower salad with chicken, followed by a comforting winter melon and carrot soup. For the main course, we savoured tender Beef Lok Lak, aromatic Fish Amok, and steamed Chinese cabbage with salty bean sauce. The meal was perfectly complemented by fragrant lemongrass steamed rice, and to finish, we indulged in a sweet treat of chocolate and vanilla ice cream. The serene setting made the experience even more enjoyable as we cruised along the river.

As I looked out over the river, the sun setting behind the hills, I felt a deep sense of gratitude. The Toum Tiou 2 New Discovery Tour, offered by CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEurope, had taken me on a journey not only through Cambodia’s stunning landscapes but also through its rich history and culture. Day 7 of the Discovery Cruise had been an unforgettable experience, one that perfectly captured the spirit of Cambodia.

Toum Tiou 2

*New Discovery Tour offered by CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEurope
Website: www.cfmekong.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CFMekongRiverCruises/
Email: office@cfmekong.com
Address: Office 20, Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Preah Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, 12207, Cambodia
Phone Number: + 855 (0) 23 216 070, + 855 (0) 12 240 859

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