Day 5 on Toum Tiou 2: Exploring Tra Su Forest and Sam Mountain

Toum Tiou 2

Waking up aboard the Toum Tiou 2 felt like waking up in a dream. The gentle rocking of the boat, the soft sounds of the river, and the early morning light filtering through the windows set the perfect tone for the adventure-filled day ahead. The sun had just risen over the Mekong Delta, casting a warm golden glow across the river’s surface, and I could already sense that the day would be filled with discovery, beauty, and new experiences.

After a restful night on board, I was eager to begin the day. Breakfast was a delightful spread of fresh tropical fruits, pastries, and Vietnamese specialties, with hot coffee and tea to complete the meal. The combination of light, healthy fare and the peaceful atmosphere of the boat made for the perfect start to a busy day of exploration.

Disembarking at Chau Doc and Boarding the Mini Bus

Disembarking from Toum Tiou 2 

By 7am, we were ready to disembark from the Toum Tiou 2 at the bustling riverside town of Chau Doc. As we stepped off the boat, I was immediately struck by the vibrant energy of the place. Chau Doc is a town located at the junction of the Mekong River and the Cambodian border, where cultures mix. The streets were alive with activity—locals going about their daily routines, boats ferrying goods across the river, and the soft hum of city life mixing with the sounds of the river.

Chau Doc main road

A mini bus was waiting for us, ready to take us on a journey to Tra Su Forest, a protected wetland and bird sanctuary in the heart of the Mekong Delta. As we boarded the bus, I could already feel the anticipation building. We drove through the town’s streets and then out into the surrounding countryside, where the scenery began to change. The road wound through lush green fields, small villages, and patches of forest, offering a taste of rural Vietnam.

Tra Su Forest: A Sanctuary of Serenity

Entrance to Tra Su Forest

Arriving at Tra Su Forest was like entering another world. The landscape here is dominated by water, trees, and birds. The forest is part of the Tra Su Wetland Reserve, a haven for wildlife and one of the best-preserved ecosystems in the Mekong Delta. As we got off the mini bus, I noticed a large sign that read, "Kính Chào Quý Khách," which translates to "Hello, Guests." It was a warm and welcoming greeting. The sign made me feel like I was about to experience something special and unique.

Tra Su Forest

One of the first things that caught my eye as we entered the forest was the Melaleuca trees, which grow abundantly in the area. These Australian native trees, with their silvery bark and soft, fluffy flowers, are an integral part of the ecosystem in the forest. They help maintain the wetland’s delicate balance by preventing erosion and providing habitats for a variety of birds and insects. The sight of the Melaleuca trees, their white blossoms standing out against the green backdrop, was both beautiful and calming.

Paddle boat ride in Tra Su Forest

We boarded small paddle boats, each rowed by a local guide who expertly navigated the narrow, winding waterways of the forest. The water was calm and reflective, and the boat ride was peaceful. As we glided along, we passed through dense clusters of mangrove trees and cajuput trees, their roots dipping into the water. The air was thick with the scent of wet earth and vegetation, and I could hear the occasional call of a bird in the distance. It was the perfect way to explore the forest’s hidden corners, and the stillness of the water allowed me to fully appreciate the natural beauty around me.

Motor boat ride in Tra Su Forest

In addition to the paddle boats, we also had the opportunity to experience the motorboat rides that zipped through the wider stretches of the forest. These boats are faster, allowing us to cover more ground and spot a greater variety of wildlife. As we cruised through the waterways, I could see local birds nesting in the trees, and even a few herons and kingfishers darting through the air. The forest was teeming with life, and I felt like an explorer, discovering a hidden world that few people get to experience.

Climbing the Lookout Tower

Tra Su Forest

After our boat and motorboat rides, we headed to the lookout tower, one of the best vantage points in Tra Su Forest to take in the full expanse of the area. Perched high above the wetlands, the tower offered sweeping views of the intricate network of rivers, streams, and lush trees stretching as far as the eye could see. The climb up was short but steep, and once at the top, I was rewarded with breathtaking views. The vast sea of green below felt both overwhelming and serene. From the top, I spotted a few storks and other waterfowl soaring overhead, their wings gliding against the clear blue sky. It was a tranquil, meditative moment, allowing me to fully appreciate the beauty and calm of this incredible landscape.

Birds in Tra Su Forest

In addition to its paddle and motor boat rides, Tra Su Forest offers a variety of exciting activities for visitors to enjoy. You can explore the lush landscapes by cycling through the forest or crossing the iconic wooden bridge that spans over the tranquil waters. For those looking to try their hand at local traditions, fishing in the forest’s waterways is a popular pastime. Thrill-seekers can test their balance on the swing, or engage in some friendly competition with coracle races—traditional Vietnamese round boats that provide a fun and unique way to navigate the forest’s waterways. These activities make Tra Su Forest an unforgettable destination for nature lovers and adventure enthusiasts alike.

Journeying to Sam Mountain

Vietnamese wedding

After a morning of exploration in Tra Su Forest, we boarded the mini bus again for the drive to Sam Mountain. As we made our way out of the forest, the countryside started to change once more. We passed through small villages and fields of rice, and along the way, I couldn’t help but notice the numerous weddings taking place in grand marquees along the roadsides. It seemed that every village had a wedding celebration underway, with large white and gold tents filled with guests. The music, laughter, and bright colors added an extra layer of vibrancy to the journey.

Sam Mountain

Sam Mountain, known locally as Nui Sam, is a sacred site for both Buddhists and Hindus, and it’s famous for its spiritual significance as well as its breathtaking views. The mountain, which rises 230 meters above sea level, is the highest peak in the Mekong delta. It is home to several temples and pagodas, and it’s a popular spot for pilgrims seeking blessings.

Cable Car to the Summit

Sam Mountain Cable Car

Upon arriving at the base of Sam Mountain, we boarded the cable car for the ride to the summit, and the ascent was nothing short of spectacular. As the cable car rose, sweeping panoramic views of the surrounding landscape unfolded before me. The terrain below shifted from flat rice paddies to rocky hills, and in the distance, I could see the Mekong River winding its way through the fields. The lush greenery of the An Giang countryside stretched beneath us, with rolling hills and dense forests leading toward the horizon. The further we climbed, the more the vast expanse of the Mekong Delta came into view, creating a stunning contrast against the mountainside.

Sam Mountain

Along the way, the mountainside was dotted with temples and shrines, adding a sense of spirituality and serenity to the awe-inspiring scenery. The gentle swaying of the cable car was relaxing, and as we neared the summit, I could see the Buddhist pagodas and shrines that crown the mountain, their golden spires gleaming in the sunlight. The final stretch brought us to a beautiful overlook where I paused to gaze out over the valley below, feeling a profound sense of peace and awe at the beauty surrounding me.

Myself on top of Mountain

At the top, I took time to explore the various temples, offering a few moments of quiet reflection and appreciating the serenity of the mountaintop. The panoramic views from here stretched all the way to Cambodia, offering a rare perspective of the Mekong Delta and the landscape below. 

Admiring orchids on Sam Mountain

The ride down was equally mesmerizing, offering fresh perspectives of the terrain. As I descended, I noticed expansive forests, rice fields, and small villages scattered across the valley, all bathed in the warm light of the setting sun. The entire experience was both peaceful and exhilarating, offering the perfect blend of natural beauty and spiritual tranquility—a truly unforgettable way to appreciate the significance of Cam Mountain.

Exploring the Sacred Ba Chua Xu Temple

Local Shop

After getting off the cable car, we made our way on foot past many small shops to the Ba Chua Xu Temple. The temple, first built in 1820, sits at the base of Sam Mountain, and it immediately exudes a sense of peace and reverence. As I approached, I noticed how beautifully the temple blended with its natural surroundings. 

The temple, dedicated to the local deity Ba Chua Xu, has long been a place of worship for both locals and visitors. Its serene ambiance provided the perfect setting for quiet reflection, and I couldn't help but feel a sense of calm wash over me as I entered the sacred grounds. The intricate carvings and golden statues inside the temple stood as a testament to the rich cultural and religious heritage of the area.

Entry to Ba Chua Xu Temple

The story behind the temple is steeped in legend, adding to its mystique. According to local folklore, in the early 19th century, Siamese (Thai) forces crossed into Vietnamese territory, looting and causing unrest. When they reached the summit of Sam Mountain and discovered the statue of Ba Chua Xu, they tried to carry it down to take it back to Thailand, but despite their efforts, the statue couldn’t be moved.

Interior of Ba Chua Xu Temple

Later, the locals found the statue abandoned in the forest and tried to carry it back down the mountain to build a shrine. However, no matter how many people tried, the statue remained immovable. At that point, a woman entered a trance and identified herself as Ba Chua Xu, telling the villagers that only nine purified virgin girls could carry the statue. Following her instructions, they gathered the maidens, and miraculously, they were able to lift the statue with ease.

As they reached the foot of the mountain, however, the statue became heavy and immovable once more. This was seen as a sign that Ba Chua Xu had chosen this spot as her resting place, and the temple was built to honor her. The legend, full of spiritual significance, added to the sense of mysticism that filled the temple, making my visit all the more meaningful.

Lunch Back on the Toum Tiou 2

After a fulfilling visit to Sam Mountain, it was time to return to the Toum Tiou 2 for lunch. The mini bus made its way back to the river, passing more wedding celebrations on the way. The lively, festive atmosphere was a sharp contrast to the peaceful, spiritual experience of Sam Mountain, and it added an extra touch of color to our journey.

Hammock roadside rest area

We passed numerous hammock roadside rest areas that dotted the landscape. These humble yet inviting stops are a common sight in rural Vietnam, where locals and travelers alike take a break from the heat of the day. The rest areas are simple—small, shaded spots with rows of hammocks strung between trees or posts, providing a peaceful place to relax. 

Lunch on board the Toum Tiou 2

Back on board the Toum Tiou 2, we were greeted with a delicious lunch spread, prepared by the talented chef aboard the boat. For lunch, I had the chance to choose my own ingredients for pho. Pho (pronounced "fuh") is a classic Vietnamese dish made with a rich broth, traditionally simmered with beef or chicken and spices like star anise, cinnamon, and ginger. It’s served over soft rice noodles (bánh phở) and can be topped with thinly sliced beef (pho bò) or chicken (pho gà). I got to personalize my pho, adding fresh herbs, bean sprouts, lime, chili, and a choice of sauces like hoisin or sriracha. There was also avocado salad, spicy cabbage salad, Cambodian omelette, palm cake, and fresh fruits like mangoes and papayas and watermelon. It was the perfect way to recharge after a busy day of exploration, and the peaceful setting of the boat allowed us to unwind and reflect on the adventures so far.

Cooking Lesson: Spring Rolls

Cooking class on Toum Tiou 2

After lunch, it was time for one of the highlights of the day—a cooking lesson on making Vietnamese spring rolls. Spring rolls are a quintessential part of Vietnamese cuisine, and learning how to prepare them from scratch was both fun and educational. The chef guided us through the process of preparing the rice paper wrappers, the filling, and the dipping sauce, sharing tips and techniques along the way. We used fresh ingredients, including shrimp, herbs, and vegetables, to create our own rolls. The end result was a delicious and refreshing dish that was easy to make and packed with flavour.

Cooking Lesson: Egg Coffee

Coffee class on Toum Tiou 2

Next, we learned how to make another Vietnamese specialty—egg coffee. This sweet, creamy drink is made by whipping egg yolks with sweetened condensed milk and then adding it to strong Vietnamese coffee. The result is a rich, velvety beverage that has a unique flavour profile—a perfect blend of bitter coffee and sweet, frothy egg foam. The chef demonstrated the technique for whipping the eggs to the perfect consistency, and we each had the chance to make our own cup. It was a fun and interactive lesson, and the egg coffee was the perfect treat after a busy afternoon.

Crossing the Vietnam-Cambodia Border

Sailing on Toum Tiou 2

As the Toum Tiou 2 slowly made its way down the Mekong River toward the border, the anticipation of crossing into Cambodia added an exciting sense of adventure to the day. The process of crossing the border was seamless and efficient, with passport checks and customs paperwork handled effortlessly on board the boat. Mitch, our ships Purser, had already prepared everything in advance, ensuring that the transition from Vietnam to Cambodia was as smooth as possible. As we passed through the Vietnam-Cambodia border checkpoint, I couldn’t help but marvel at the unique experience of crossing countries while still afloat, floating along the same river that connects these two nations. The convenience of the process meant that we didn’t have to leave the comfort of the boat, and within a short time, we were officially in Cambodia, ready for the next phase of our journey.

Dinner on Board

Floating houses on river

By the time we returned to the Toum Tiou 2 for dinner, the atmosphere was both relaxing and festive. The dining area was beautifully set up, and the soft glow of lights illuminated the tables, casting a warm, welcoming ambiance. Dinner was a delightful affair, featuring a mix of fresh, local Cambodian and Vietnamese favourites. The chef outdid himself with a spread of flavourful Cambodian fish amok (a rich, coconut milk-based curry), grilled shrimp, and fresh vegetable stir-fries. Each dish was prepared with care, using the finest ingredients from the region, and paired perfectly with a selection of local wines and cold beers. The relaxed pace of the meal allowed us to savour each bite while chatting with fellow passengers, recounting the highlights of the day’s adventures. As the sun set over the river, the boat’s calm, floating atmosphere created the perfect backdrop for a leisurely evening of dining and socializing.

Cocktail Making Competition

Cargo boats on river

After dinner, the energy on board shifted into a fun, competitive mood as the crew organized a cocktail-making competition. We were all invited to participate, with a selection of spirits, mixers, and fresh ingredients laid out on the bar. The challenge was simple: create the most delicious and inventive cocktail using the available ingredients. Everyone had a blast concocting their unique creations, experimenting with different combinations of flavours, and garnishing their drinks with fresh herbs, fruits, and spices. The competition was lighthearted but spirited, with plenty of laughter as each participant presented their cocktail to the group for tasting. The crew acted as judges, offering feedback and awarding points based on creativity, presentation, and, of course, taste. It was a great way to bond with fellow travelers, and even those who didn’t mix cocktails enjoyed cheering on the participants and sipping their favourite concoctions.

Karaoke Night

Lanterns at Tra Su Forest

As the cocktail competition wrapped up and the winners were announced, the evening continued on a high note with a karaoke night. The atmosphere on board the Toum Tiou 2 had become a lively celebration, with people eagerly lining up to sing their favourite songs. The boat’s karaoke setup created the perfect environment for some memorable performances. Whether it was classic rock hits, pop songs, or heartfelt ballads, everyone got into the spirit and joined in the fun. The sound of familiar tunes filled the boat as people sang along with abandon, and even those who were a bit shy at first were soon belting out their favourite songs. The sense of camaraderie and joy was infectious, and it didn’t take long for the entire group to get caught up in the fun. The night wrapped up with everyone in great spirits, singing and laughing together, making memories that would linger long after the journey came to an end.

Toum Tiou 2

Toum Tiou 2

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