As the sun broke through the early morning mist on Day 4 of our Toum Tiou 2 New Discovery Tour, offered by CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEurope, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of gratitude and awe. I was one of just 14 passengers aboard the Toum Tiou 2, a boutique riverboat offering a uniquely intimate and immersive journey along this vital waterway. The previous days had been filled with unforgettable experiences, but today, as we ventured into the heart of the Mekong Delta, I knew we were in for something truly special. This was a day of history, culture, spirituality, and incredible local encounters, all woven together by the magic of the river that has sustained so many generations.
I awoke to the soft hum of the Toum Tiou 2 as it drifted along the Mekong, anchored near the riverside town of Sa Dec. The gentle rocking of the boat was almost hypnotic, and as I opened the curtains, I saw the early morning light glistening on the river, with the occasional ripple caused by a passing boat. The air was warm, humid, and full of life—the unmistakable scent of tropical plants mingling with the earthy aroma of the river.
Breakfast was served from 7:00am in the ship’s elegant dining room. As I walked in, the crew greeted us warmly, and I was immediately drawn to the array of dishes on offer. I started the day with a combination of traditional Vietnamese and Western breakfast options. A steaming bowl of pho—Vietnam's beloved noodle soup—was the perfect choice. The rich, aromatic broth filled my senses, its subtle blend of herbs, spices, and beef providing comfort and energy for the day ahead.
One of the highlights of breakfast aboard the Toum Tiou 2 was the chance to create my own custom omelette. The omelette station offered a range of fresh ingredients—allowing me to tailor my meal to my liking. I carefully chose my favourites, and as the chef expertly folded the omelette, the aroma of eggs and herbs filled the air. When it arrived, it was perfectly cooked with crispy edges and a soft, melt-in-your-mouth interior. Each bite was a delicious start to the day, setting the tone for the adventures ahead along the Mekong River.
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| Shore excursion to Sa Dec |
There were also fresh tropical fruits—sweet mangoes, papayas, and juicy pineapples—as well as a selection of freshly made banh mi sandwiches, a Vietnamese favourite. The fusion of local flavours and international breakfast staples made the meal feel both exotic and familiar, a perfect reflection of the cruise itself.
As I sipped my coffee and watched the sun rise higher over the river, the excitement of the day ahead began to set in. Today, we would visit the small town of Sa Dec and experience its vibrant markets, ancient houses, and sacred temples. I was eager to explore and learn more about the area’s fascinating history.
Embarking on the Small Boat for a Morning Exploration
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| Shore excursion to Sa Dec |
At 8:00 AM, our group gathered on the main deck of the Toum Tiou 2, where a small wooden boat was waiting to take us deeper into the Mekong Delta. Our local guide, Steven, a friendly and knowledgeable Vietnamese man, briefed us on the day's itinerary as we boarded the boat. We were a small group, just 14 passengers, which made it feel like a close-knit family. The boat’s engine roared to life, and we began our journey toward the riverside town of Sa Dec.
As the boat glided through the tranquil waters of the Mekong, I felt a sense of serenity wash over me. The delta’s waterways were alive with activity—local fishermen in wooden boats casting their nets, families tending to floating gardens, and children splashing in the water. Steven hared insights about the geography of the Mekong Delta and its significance to the people who call it home. The river is both their lifeblood and their lifeline, providing water, food, and transportation.
As we approached the town of Sa Dec, I could see the distinctive wooden houses, many perched on stilts to protect against flooding during the rainy season. The dense greenery of the riverbanks and the occasional traditional Vietnamese fishing boat made the landscape feel timeless, as though we had stepped back into an earlier era of river-based life.
First Stop: The Cao Dai Temple
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| Cao Dai Temple |
Our first stop in Sa Dec was the Cao Dai Temple, an impressive and colorful religious structure that piqued my curiosity. Founded in southern Vietnam in the 1920s, the Cao Dai faith is a syncretic religion that blends elements of Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, Christianity, and other world religions. The temple’s eclectic architecture reflects this fusion, with vibrant colors and intricate designs that combine both Eastern and Western spiritual traditions.
As we stepped inside the temple, I was struck by the peaceful yet reverent atmosphere. The walls were adorned with vibrant statues of deities from various religions, while the teachings of Cao Dai were painted on the walls.
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| Cao Dai Temple |
Our guide, Steven, explained the role of the Cao Dai religion in Vietnamese society. The faith promotes unity and peace by embracing the core principles of all major religions, and its message of harmony was beautifully reflected in the temple’s architecture and design. The visit to this unique and vibrant place offered a fascinating glimpse into the spiritual and cultural landscape of the Mekong Delta.
The temple is a physical manifestation of the unity of all major world religions and spans 97.5 meters long and 22 meters wide. It is divided into three key sections:
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| Cao Dai Temple |
1) Hiệp Thiên Đài: The Sacred Gateway
The temple’s front is marked by two towering structures—one a bell tower and the other a drum tower, each standing 27 meters tall. These towers symbolize the boundary between the earthly realm and the spiritual world. On the ground floor, Tịnh Tâm Điện (The Hall of Peace) is divided into three sections—central worship space, and areas designated for men and women.
2) Cửu Trùng Đài (The Nine Levels of Heaven)
As we moved deeper into the temple, we entered Cửu Trùng Đài, a long hall divided into nine levels, each corresponding to a different rank in the Cao Đài spiritual hierarchy. These ascending levels represent the spiritual journey of followers toward enlightenment. The fifth level is dedicated to bishops, and directly above it rises a high tower known as Nghinh Phong Đài. The lower half of the tower is square, while its upper half is circular, symbolizing the blending of the material and spiritual worlds and representing spiritual enlightenment.
3) Bát Quái Đài: The Heart of the Temple
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| Cao Dai Temple |
The final section of the temple, Bát Quái Đài, is considered the spiritual heart of the Cao Đài Temple. This octagonal tower is the sacred space for Đức chí Tôn (the Jade Emperor), Saints, Buddha, and Fairies, and is viewed as the soul of the temple. The eight sides of the tower correspond to elements of Bagua, symbolizing the harmony of the universe. At the center of the Bát Quái Đài, on its highest tier, sits the Qian-Kun Ball, a massive 3.3-meter sphere representing the Jade Emperor's universe. Adorned with the Divine Eye, this ball serves as a reminder of the unity of all things in the cosmos, reinforcing the Cao Đài belief in harmony and interconnectedness.
Our guide, Steven, explained the role of the Cao Dai religion in Vietnamese society. The faith promotes unity and peace by embracing the core principles of all major religions, and its message of harmony was beautifully reflected in the temple’s architecture and design. The visit to this unique and vibrant place offered a fascinating glimpse into the spiritual and cultural landscape of the Mekong Delta.
Second Stop: Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House
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| Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House |
After leaving the Cao Dai Temple, we headed to the Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House, a beautifully preserved colonial-era mansion that once belonged to a wealthy Chinese merchant family. Built in 1895 by Mr. Huynh Cam Thuan, a successful merchant from Fujian, China, the house is nestled along the Sa Dec River in a lively commercial district.
Following Mr. Huynh’s death, his youngest son, Huynh Thuy Le, inherited the property, and the house has remained remarkably well-preserved ever since. In 2008, it was recognized as a provincial heritage site and elevated to a national relic the following year.
The Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House is particularly renowned for its connection to Marguerite Duras' novel The Lover, which is a semi-autobiographical account of her youth in Vietnam. In the novel, Duras reflects on her passionate, yet forbidden romance with a Chinese lover, and the house itself plays a significant role in the backdrop of this poignant and culturally complex love story. The house is said to be the inspiration for the setting of the romance, adding a layer of historical and literary significance to its already rich cultural and architectural value.
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| Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House |
Originally a traditional Southern-style wooden house, it had three rooms and spanned 258 square meters, with a boat-shaped roof covered in yin-yang tiles. In 1917, the house underwent a significant renovation, with solid brick walls added around the original wooden frame, giving it the appearance of a French villa while retaining a distinctly Chinese interior. The Romanesque exterior features arched gates and floral-patterned columns, while inside, the layout still preserves the Vietnamese three-room style, with gilded and red-lacquered panels that reflect Chinese artistry.
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| Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House |
One of the standout features of the house are the French-style ceramic tiles, which were imported from France. Another unique element is the horizontal wooden door frame that can be pulled open and closed, allowing air and light to enter while maintaining privacy—this feature, locally called the "nap door frame," was designed to keep the house cool during the day while avoiding unwanted attention. Additionally, the floor in the center of the house is slightly sunken, in keeping with feng shui principles that are thought to attract wealth.
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| Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House |
The Quan Cong altar is located at the heart of the house, serving as a central focal point that reflects the home’s Chinese heritage. This altar not only highlights the spiritual traditions of the family but also underscores the deep cultural influence of Chinese customs in the home’s design and daily life, reinforcing a strong connection to ancestral beliefs.
The altar is dedicated to Quan Công (also known as Guan Yu), the revered Chinese general who is considered a symbol of loyalty, righteousness, and justice. His image, often depicted with a red face and a long beard, stands at the center of the altar, surrounded by offerings of incense, candles, and symbolic items.
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| Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House |
This altar not only serves a religious function but also represents the deep respect the Huynh family had for Chinese traditions and beliefs. The gilded and lacquered panels around the altar often feature images and motifs from traditional Chinese art, including dragons, phoenixes, and floral patterns, which are symbols of prosperity, good fortune, and harmony.
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| Huynh Thuy Le Ancient House |
As we stepped inside, it felt as though we had stepped back in time. The creaky wooden beams, the antique furniture, the delicate carvings, and the embroidered textiles all gave the house an authentic, lived-in feel. The blend of French colonial and traditional Vietnamese design created a space that was both elegant and grounded in local culture.
As Steven shared stories of the house’s past, including the life of Huynh Thuy Le, a prominent local merchant with connections to both the French and Chinese communities, I couldn’t help but think of how the house encapsulated the complex themes of love, class, and colonial power that run through Duras’ novel. The house was not just a fascinating glimpse into the past but also a reminder of the intricate relationships that shaped Vietnam during a period of significant cultural and political transformation.
Third Stop: Cho Nong San Local Market
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| Cho Nong San Market |
Next, we visited the Cho Nong San Local Market, a bustling and vibrant hub of activity in the heart of Sa Dec. As soon as we stepped off the boat, I was enveloped by the sights, sounds, and smells of this lively market. The narrow aisles were packed with vendors selling everything from fresh fish and seafood to fragrant herbs, tropical fruits, vegetables, rice, raw meats, and even live animals. You could find everything from live chickens, ducks, and turtles, to fish, snakes, and other exotic offerings.
The market was a true sensory explosion, with colorful displays of fresh produce in every direction. Bright yellow papayas, pink dragon fruit, fiery red chilies, and fragrant lemongrass filled the air with their vivid hues and enticing aromas. Stalls were overflowing with tropical fruits, fresh herbs, and vibrant vegetables like cucumbers, water spinach, and eggplant. The air was thick with a mix of sweet, spicy, and tangy scents, drawing us in at every turn and adding to the excitement of the bustling market scene.
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| Cho Nong San Market |
The bustling atmosphere was alive with energy as vendors called out to passersby, proudly offering their goods. The variety was mind-boggling. Everywhere you looked, there were surprises. Fresh herbs like mint, basil, and cilantro added their own fragrances to the mix, making the air even more aromatic. The market was more than just a place to shop—it was a cultural hub, where farmers, traders, and buyers exchanged goods and stories. The lively conversations and the constant hum of activity created an atmosphere that was both chaotic and captivating, making the market an unforgettable experience.
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| Cho Nong San Market |
I wandered through the market, chatting with some of the vendors who were incredibly friendly and eager to share their stories. One woman, selling tropical fruits, proudly explained how she had grown everything herself on her family’s small farm. Her pride in her work was evident, and I could see how the market served not just as a place of commerce, but as a community gathering space where people connected and exchanged news.
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| Cho Nong San Market |
I wandered through the market, chatting with some of the vendors who were incredibly friendly and eager to share their stories. One woman, selling tropical fruits, proudly explained how she had grown everything herself on her family’s small farm. Her pride in her work was evident, and I could see how the market served not just as a place of commerce, but as a community gathering space where people connected and exchanged news.
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| Vietnamese Dai Long Dress |
Steven explained that markets like Cho Nong San are essential to life in the Mekong Delta. They provide a vital source of income for local farmers and traders, while also serving as social spaces where people from all walks of life come together. The market truly felt like a microcosm of Vietnamese life—bustling, vibrant, and full of energy. It was a place where commerce, culture, and community intersected in a way that felt both timeless and authentic.
Fourth Stop: Kien An Cung Temple
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| Kien An Cung Temple |
Our last stop of the morning was the Kien An Cung Temple, also known as Ong Quach Pagoda, a stunning Chinese temple dedicated to Quan Cong, the revered general. Located in the heart of Sa Dec, opposite the Cai Son Canal, the temple has long served as a central spiritual hub for the local Chinese-Vietnamese community. Built between 1924 and 1927 by Chinese immigrants from Fujian, the temple is a beautiful fusion of traditional Chinese architecture and religious devotion.
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| Kien An Cung Temple |
As we entered, the peaceful atmosphere of the temple offered a stark contrast to the liveliness of the market we had just visited. The intricate wood carvings, golden statues, and the incense-filled air evoked a sense of reverence and tranquility. Architecturally, the temple is an impressive sight. It is designed in the shape of the Chinese character "Cong" (工), with three sections: the East wing, West wing, and a larger main hall. The roof, featuring three layers of tiles, follows a distinctive dragon wave design, where each wave is like a miniature palace, with six palaces in total. This architectural style, combined with the use of mortise and tenon beams on round wooden pillars, creates a unique and sturdy structure that highlights the skill of the craftsmen.
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| Kien An Cung Temple |
Inside the main hall, the shrine to Quang Trach Ton Vuong is a focal point, with a red bronze statue of the general, depicted with a benevolent face and holding a jade belt. Flanking him are two other deities: Thanh Thuy To Su on his right and Bao Sanh Dai De on his left. The two side chambers, Dong Lang and Tay Lang, house additional shrines to other gods, including Quan Thanh De Quan. The walls are adorned with images from classic Chinese literature, such as Journey to the West and the Romance of the Three Kingdoms. These detailed illustrations add to the rich cultural atmosphere of the temple.
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| Kien An Cung Temple |
The exterior of the temple is equally captivating. At the entrance, two large green stone unicorns stand proudly, each holding a pearl in their mouths, intricately carved and symbolizing protection. Above the entrance is a gilded red-lacquered board, inscribed with a message of prosperity and peace. Surrounding the entrance, the temple walls are decorated with ceramic miniatures depicting trees, birds, animals, and human figures, all meticulously crafted. Notably, the entrance features six golden lions and scenes of royal life. On both sides of the entrance are poem inscriptions, beautifully decorated with apricot blossoms and cranes, adding to the temple's artistic charm.
A small courtyard within the temple is reserved for worship, providing a tranquil space for reflection. The temple’s design is not only an architectural marvel but also a rich tapestry of religious symbolism and cultural significance.
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| Kien An Cung Temple |
Steven shared with us the history of the temple, explaining how it was built by Chinese immigrants who settled in the region, and how it continues to serve as a vital place of worship and community gathering. It was a peaceful and reflective experience, offering valuable insight into the spiritual life of the local community. Kien An Cung Temple is not only a place of worship but also a cultural landmark, beautifully blending Chinese architectural traditions with the history and community spirit of Sa Dec. The visit was a glimpse into the enduring faith and rich cultural heritage of the area.
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| Chefs Lunch on Toum Tiou 2 |
Back to the Toum Tiou 2
After a morning of exploration, we returned to the Toum Tiou 2 for lunch. As we settled into the Chairman’s Lounge, we were treated to a delicious meal featuring traditional Vietnamese dishes. There was com tam (broken rice), grilled river fish, and savory banh xeo (Vietnamese pancakes), all paired with fresh tropical fruit for dessert. From my perspective, the chef on board the Toum Tiou 2 expertly crafts personalized meals using fresh, local ingredients, offering a blend of Southeast Asian cuisine tailored to guests' tastes. With a focus on creating memorable dining experiences, the chef ensures each meal is a reflection of the region’s rich culinary traditions and flavors.
Afternoon Overview of Vietnam’s Geography, History, and Culture
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| Welcome back to Toum Tiou 2 |
The afternoon was dedicated to a comprehensive talk given by Stephen on Vietnam’s geography, history, economy, religion, and cultural life. Steven took us through the country’s complex and multifaceted history, highlighting key events that shaped its present-day identity. From the ancient kingdoms and dynasties to the wars that defined the 20th century, it was fascinating to gain such an in-depth understanding of Vietnam’s rich cultural heritage.
Dinner on Board: A Beautiful Conclusion to the Day
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| Evening dinner dish |
As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the Mekong River, we gathered on the deck for a final dinner aboard the Toum Tiou 2 New Discovery Tour, offered by CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEurope. The meal was a delightful combination of Vietnamese flavours, from fragrant soups to grilled meats and fresh vegetables. It felt like the perfect ending to a day full of new experiences and knowledge.
Looking back on the day, I felt incredibly fortunate to have experienced such a diverse range of activities, from visiting sacred temples and ancient houses to exploring bustling local markets and hearing the rich history of this region. The Mekong River had once again proven to be more than just a waterway; it was a lifeline for the people who live along its banks, a living thread that connected the past, present, and future of Vietnam.
Toum Tiou 2
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| Toum Tiou 2 |
*New Discovery Tour offered by CF Mekong River Cruises by CroisiEurope
Website:
www.cfmekong.comFacebook:
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office@cfmekong.comAddress: Office 20, Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Preah Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, 12207, Cambodia
Phone Number: + 855 (0) 23 216 070, + 855 (0) 12 240 859
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