Wednesday, 10 April 2013

Pi Mai - Lao New Year

Pi Mai Lao or Lao New year is the liveliest holiday of the year and one that everyone looks forward to, as it is a time when many people visit their families all over the country. It takes place around 13-15 April, the hottest part of the year, which is why no one really minds being constantly wet from the water being thrown everywhere.

The first day, known as Maha Songkran, is considered the last day of the old year. Lao will clean their houses and villages on this day, and prepare water, perfume, and flowers for the days ahead.


The second day of the Lao New Year festival is the "day of no day", a day that falls in neither the old year nor the new year. Houses and villages are properly cleaned on the second day. Traditionally elders will not allow young people to take nap or stay still on the second day as it’s believed that if one sleeps or stays still one will get sick in the coming year. They encourage young people to clean their places and go out to pour water on other elders in the village and wish them well, and finally get wet themselves. This is a way to clean and send bad things away with the old year.



The last day of the festival marks the start of the new year. This day many families will hold a Baci at their houses to welcome Lao New Year as well as to wish their elders good health and long life. Some might respectfully ask for forgiveness from their elders for things that they did in the past year that might have hurt their feelings unintentionally. And at the same time they give the elders gifts.




In late afternoon or evening of the last day, in the temples, the Buddha images are moved back to their permanent homes. On that same evening devotees go to wats to listen to the monks chanting as an act to ask for forgiveness from the monks as well as from the Buddha images for what they did (pouring water on them) in this past few days that might have accidentally touched them (monks and Buddha are not to be touched). After that, a vien tien – a candlelight procession – takes place around the wat and that is the end of the Lao New Year celebration.




During the New Year, water plays a big part in the festivities - Lao bathe Buddha images in their local temples, pouring jasmine-scented water and flower petals on the sculptures. The faithful will also build sand stupas and decorate these with flowers and string. At each temple, monks will provide the water, as well as blessings for the devotees flocking to the temples and the white bai sri strings, which they will tie around devotees' wrists. People also get soaked during Bun Pi Mai - people respectfully pour water on monks and elders, and less reverently on each other! Foreigners are not exempt from this treatment - if you're in Laos during Bun Pi Mai, do expect to be soaked by passing teenagers, who'll give you the wet treatment from buckets of water, hoses, or high-pressure water guns. 





Pi Mai Lao is particularly spectacular in Luang Prabang as this is where there are many parades and other festivities, which normally last about a week. The religious highlight is when the revered Prabang Buddha image is carried through the streets in a golden house supported by two long poles, carried by young men. Other events in Luang Prabang include an annual Nangsoukhane beauty pageant, nightly parties with traditional Lao music and circle dancing, and parades throughout the city.




In some of these parades, three outlandishly-dressed figures play leading roles. The two red-faced toothy heads are called Grandfather and Grandmother Nyeu, guardians of the environment and venerated by the people. The lion-headed figure is called Sing Kaew Sing Kham, and he may be an old-time King






Tips for enjoying Pi Mai in Luang Prabang

- Water throwing generally takes place from midday onwards.  To avoid getting wet, do all the things you need to do outside the house in the morning.  

- Wear old clothes or clothes you don't care about getting wet or ruined - not just during the festival but in the days leading up to it.

- Carry your belongings in a plastic bag - again both during and in the days leading up to Pi Mai.

- Arm yourself with a water gun - you can buy these from Dara or Phousi market.

- Buy all the groceries you need before the start of Pi Mai, as most shops will be closed over the three days.


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