The unsung tradition of tattooing amongst the Chhattisgarh tribals

Expect the unexpected in Chhattisgarh. Chiselled out of Madhya Pradesh 17 years ago, Chhattisgarh offers an inimitable charm with its lush topography. But it is the cultural diversity that really sets it apart from the entire belly of India. Over the years Chhattisgarh has emerged as a riveting destination that is both topographically stunning and culturally rewarding for the cultural and nature loving traveller. From the vibrant tribal life to stunning waterfalls and ludicrously green landscape of paddy fields and dense forests, the state is nothing less than jaw dropping.

The land is occupied by more than 40 tribes in Chhattisgarh. It is the intense cultural magnetism that draws travellers to Chhattisgarh. Their lifestyle is still the most organic form of living, with a large dependence on the forests and cultural traditions that are non-religious. Having trawled the villages of Bastar and north Chhattisgarh several times, I have been fortunate to get a glimpse of the many tribal traditions. Of these, two stand out for me.

On a recent trip, I ditched the expected hotspot for tribal immersion in Bastar (southern part of the state), and instead took the road to Baiga villages in the northwest. Making the town of Kawardha my base, I reserved a few days to roam the haats in which the Baiga tribals come buy and sell wares. Mounds of mahua (flower which is used to make local liquor), clutches of vegetables, silver jewellery, fruits, fish, ant chutney and more sprawled under a bright yellow tarpaulin. I had visited many haats (weekly markets) in Bastar, but this was different. The shy Baiga women smiled and hid their faces behind the edge of their saris and younger ones brought their palms close to the faces, peeking from behind. As I went closer and sat amongst them, a fresh perspective on the art of Godna (tattoos) emerged.

Even though many tribals get tattoos done, the Baigas deserve a special. The Baiga women are the most tattooed in the state with symbols and emblems on their foreheads, arms, legs, backs, soles of their feet and even the chest. The Baiga women are easily distinguishable with the clear V on their foreheads. This is a symbol of a cooking hearth with plate and spoons and signifies the entry of a girl into womanhood at about ten years of age. This symbol is known as Sita Rasoi (Goddess Sita’s kitchen). Until this tattoo, the girl is not considered a part of the tribe. Other Baiga motifs include a magical chain to ward of the evil eye, steps, banana leaves, cock and hen, a pair of peacocks for fertility and peahen on the breasts, fish bones on the arms, the eggs of a magical bird called dhanda and other animals that are found in their surroundings. According to myths followed amongst the Baigas, when the spirit of a dead person appears before God, a tattooed riddle is presented to him/her. If the person fails to solve it, they are sent back to earth. This signifies how important is the stature of tattoos in the lives of the Baigas. As they slowly opened to me, they even joked that it was time for me to get a tattoo done.

For a moment, I considered it.
If you would like to visit Chhattisgarh and experience the tribal way of life contact us at engage@creative.travel