After breakfast at our overnight hotel in Saigon, we settled onto a bus, setting the tone for what promised to be an exciting and colorful day in Cholon. With Steven our local guide offering insights into the area’s vibrant history, I felt a sense of anticipation building up as we made our way through the city towards one of its most fascinating neighborhoods.
Setting the Stage: A Glimpse of Cholon’s Rich History
Cholon is a place where centuries of history unfold before your eyes. Known as Saigon’s Chinatown, this sprawling district is home to a large Vietnamese Chinese community and is filled with an eclectic mix of ancient temples, traditional markets, herbal medicine shops, and vibrant street life. While Saigon may be famous for its French colonial architecture and war history, Cholon is where the city’s cultural roots run deep, reflecting the influences of Chinese immigrants who have called this place home for generations.
First Stop: Bà Thiên Hậu Pagoda – A Sacred Refuge in the Heart of Chợ Lớn
As we entered the pagoda, we were immediately greeted by the soft, smoky haze of incense coils suspended above the central courtyard. These coils, which burn slowly over time, seem to shield the pagoda from the noise and chaos of the outside world, creating an atmosphere of peaceful reflection. It’s a place where locals come to pray, seek blessings, or simply enjoy a moment of calm away from the hustle of daily life.
Just a few steps away from Bà Thiên Hậu Pagoda is the Nghĩa An Communal House, which also doubles as a shrine to the revered Chinese general Guan Yu. This beautiful building is a fantastic example of traditional Teochew design, with its ornate wooden beams, intricate carvings, and decorative motifs. Like the pagoda, the Nghĩa An Communal House serves as both a spiritual and cultural hub, where locals gather to honor their ancestors, celebrate festivals, and uphold centuries-old traditions.
Exploring the Herbal Medicine Shops – A Walk Through Tradition
After our visit to the pagoda, we continued our exploration of Cholon, strolling through the district’s narrow, bustling streets. One of the most fascinating aspects of Cholon is its long-standing tradition of Chinese herbal medicine. The area is filled with small shops that sell a wide variety of dried herbs, roots, and remedies, many of which have been passed down through generations of herbalists.
As we walked past the tiny herbal shops, I found myself drawn to their unique charm. The air was thick with the fragrance of dried herbs, incense, and spices. The shops themselves were filled with shelves stacked high with glass jars containing all manner of strange-looking plants. Many of these remedies are believed to treat ailments ranging from digestive problems to stress and fatigue.
I had the chance to stop in one shop that specialized in traditional Chinese medicine. The shopkeeper, an elderly man with a kind smile, invited us to look at the herbs and explained their uses. One jar caught my eye – it was filled with ginseng, a root known for its ability to improve energy and circulation. The shopkeeper explained that ginseng was revered not only for its medicinal properties but also as a symbol of vitality and longevity. He also showed me goji berries, known for their health benefits, including improving vision and boosting the immune system.
As we walked through the narrow aisles of the herbal market, I was amazed by the diversity of plants and potions available. Each herb had its own unique story, often tied to centuries of tradition, passed from one generation to the next. The experience was truly eye-opening, offering a glimpse into the world of Chinese medicine that still plays a pivotal role in daily life in Cholon.
The Heart of Chinatown: Binh Tay Market – Organized Chaos
Binh Tay Market, or Chợ Lớn Market, is a must-visit in Saigon’s vibrant Cholon district, home to many people of Chinese descent. Donated by Chinese trader Guo Dam, the market reflects Cholon’s rich history and multicultural identity.
Inside, the market is a sensory overload, with narrow alleys, crowded stalls, and lively vendors offering fresh produce, seafood, textiles, clothing, electronics, and traditional Chinese goods like silk scarves, pottery, and herbal medicines. The vibrant colors of tropical fruits, aromatic herbs, and sizzling street food fill the air, creating a dynamic atmosphere.
Binh Tay is also a key wholesale hub, where many local vendors purchase goods in bulk. This draws traders from various communities, including Vietnamese, Chinese, and Khmer, making it a melting pot of cultures. The market offers a mix of Vietnamese-Chinese street food like bánh bao (steamed buns) and phở (noodle soup), reflecting the district’s culinary diversity.
More than just a marketplace, Binh Tay Market is a living testament to the spirit of Cholon – a place where history, commerce, and culture converge in a vibrant, bustling setting. Whether you're shopping, sampling local delicacies, or soaking in the atmosphere, it offers an unforgettable glimpse into the heart of this dynamic district.
Back to the Toum Tiou 2: Continuing the Journey
After an exhilarating visit to Binh Tay Market, we made our way by bus to the Toum Tiou 2, which awaited us on the Mekong River. The bus ride to the river was filled with conversation about all the sights we had experienced that day, with fellow passengers exchanging their thoughts on the incredible energy of Cholon and the fascinating cultural experiences we had encountered..jpg)
As we boarded the ship and settled into the comfortable surroundings of the Toum Tiou 2, I knew that this was just the beginning of an unforgettable journey down the Mekong River. The experiences of the day had left me with a deeper appreciation for the complexity and beauty of Vietnam, and I eagerly anticipated the adventures that lay ahead.
Conclusion
Day 2 of the Toum Tiou 2 cruise was a captivating exploration of Cholon, Saigon’s Chinatown, a district steeped in history, culture, and vibrant energy. From the serene Bà Thiên Hậu Pagoda to the sensory overload of Binh Tay Market, the day offered an immersion into the heart of Cholon that was both enlightening and exhilarating. As the Toum Tiou 2 set sail on the Mekong River, I reflected on the rich experiences of the day and couldn’t wait to see where the journey would take me next. With CF Mekong River Cruises, I was not just a tourist – I was a traveler, exploring the depths of a region that was as rich in culture as it was in history.
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