Wednesday, 13 November 2024

The joys of awakening early in Tokyo

Around 2008, a trend started among Japanese professionals to rise at daybreak and take advantage of morning mental clarity for work or self-improvement. A fusion of the words “asa” (morning) and “katsudo” (action) produced the word “asakatsu” (morning activity), a term quickly adopted by mainstream society. For a healthy and fun start to the day, here are some “asakatsu” to try in Tokyo.

From a wellness perspective, getting up early is vital. Around 2008, a trend started among Japanese professionals to rise at daybreak and take advantage of morning mental clarity for work or self-improvement. A fusion of the words “asa” (morning) and “katsudo” (action) produced the word “asakatsu” (morning activity), a term quickly adopted by mainstream society.

The English proverb that “the early bird gets the worm” has a Japanese counterpart, that “early risers get three times the benefit.” The same sentiment is echoed in other languages since ancient times around the world, making it clear that “getting up early is good for you.” Making the most of mornings also optimizes our limited vacation time. For a healthy and fun start to the day, here are some “asakatsu” to try in Tokyo.

Imperial Palace run & autumn foliage 

Runners love jogging along the outer ramparts of the Imperial Palace. One lap is about 5km long, with an incline of around 30m. While running, the view of the Imperial Palace, the National Diet Building and other historic structures contrast with the towers of Marunouchi and other famous spots in the downtown core, all surrounded by seasonal scenery for an eye-opening and eye-catching early morning jog. There is no set start point, but be aware that along this route, the rule is to run counterclockwise.

From late November to early December, autumn leaves in central Tokyo reach their peak. To the north of the Imperial Palace, the roughly 2,000 deciduous trees in the vast 19-hectare grounds of Kitanomaru Park are renowned for autumn foliage. Many popular leaf peeping spots get crowded in the day and on holidays, but can be enjoyed at leisure early in the morning.

Kokyo Gaien National Garden

Morning sumo practice tour

Sumo, Japan’s national sport. Ever since a drama series about sumo streamed on Netflix last year, attention has boomed. Sumo wrestlers belong to “sumo stables” where they live and train together. To bulk up big bodies able to take such mighty blows, the daily routine consists of intensive practice from early morning to noon, followed by a massive lunch, and an afternoon nap.

Currently, more than 40 sumo stables are in the Tokyo area, some of which allow visitors to observe the morning practice. Ajigawa stable is one of them. Feel the thunderous power of these giants crashing against each other up close. The “dohyo” ring is a sacred space where a “kamidana” (a Shinto altar) is enshrined, so it’s best to observe proper manners, such as being quiet when visiting.
Ajigawa sumo stable

Morning rites and Buddhist breakfast

Located near Ginza, Tsukiji Hongwanji is one of Tokyo's most iconic temples, known for its unique exterior inspired by ancient Indian and Asian Buddhist architecture. The Main Worship Hall, designated as a National Important Cultural Property, holds a morning service at 7AM that is open to all for free participation. The solemn majesty of the experience leaves us feeling deeply purified.

After the service, enjoy breakfast at Tsukiji Hongwanji Cafe Tsumugi on the grounds. Only from 8 to 10:30AM can you get a Buddhist-inspired breakfast. A particularly popular choice is the “18-course breakfast,” made up of 16 types of “okazu” small dishes plus rice porridge, and soup. Dining with a view of the vast grounds and renowned architecture makes this a feast for the eyes as well as the palate.
Tsukiji Hongwanji

Waterfall training

In the Tama area of western Tokyo, the 929- meter-tall Mount Mitake has long been a stronghold of “sangaku shinko,” or mountain worship, becoming a place for ascetic training and prayer. Near the summit, there are around 20 “shukubo” or accommodation facilities provided by shrines and temples for pilgrims. At some of the shukubo here, you can experience “takigyo,” or waterfall meditation, offered as a kind of spiritual training.

Guests staying at the shukubo “Seizanso” can join the takigyo course twice, once on the evening of their stay and again the next morning. After a roughly 30-minute hike along mountain trails, stand beneath a waterfall. Then perform the waterfall meditation three times, each lasting about 10 seconds. Being struck by cold water in the heart of nature is believed to clear the mind of distractions, creating a sense of being reborn and transformed. Guidance on meditation and breathing techniques is provided during waterfall meditation; however, there are limitations to English support. For a deeper understanding, it's reassuring to have someone who understands Japanese or an interpreter guide accompanying you. Waterfall meditation is conducted year-round, but it can be particularly challenging during the winter months when the water is cold, so it’s only recommended for those confident in their physical strength and determined not to give up.
Seizanso(Japanese site only)

Tuna auction tour and breakfast

Toyosu Market is a cornerstone for Tokyo as a city of culinary excellence. For a taste of the dynamic energy here, drop by to catch auctions of fish and produce in the early morning. The auction of everyone’s favorite sushi, tuna, starts at 5:30am. Some events require advance reservations (https://toyosu.jcdlotterysite.jp/?lng=2), but feel free to drop by to watch the fruit and vegetable auction anytime.

The market grounds are also home to plenty of restaurants open from early morning. Try a breakfast only possible here, made with the freshest of ingredients. The roughly 70 shops selling food products, cooking tools, and more, also make this a great place to pick up souvenirs. Many shops close in the afternoon, so don’t sleep in and miss your chance. The grassy Roof Garden offers the stunning sight of the Tokyo skyline bathed in a morning glow.

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