Day 8 on the Toum Tiou 2 Discovery Cruise: Exploring the Pottery Heritage of Cambodia

Toum Tiou 2

The sun was just beginning to rise as the Toum Tiou 2, our beautiful riverboat, set sail for Kampong Chhnang, a port city in Cambodia renowned for its pottery. It was 6:30 a.m. when the ship gently pulled away from its mooring. As we left the calm waters behind, I couldn't help but reflect on the extraordinary experiences I'd had so far on this remarkable journey. Little did I know, Day 8 was about to offer yet another fascinating chapter in my adventure through Vietnam and Cambodia.

A Quiet Morning on the Water

View from Toum Tiou 2

By 7:30 a.m., the gentle hum of the ship’s engines was joined by the lively chatter of fellow passengers in the restaurant, where breakfast was being served. The buffet spread offered a wide variety of options, with both Western and Asian dishes, from eggs and bacon to congee and a selection of tropical fruits. The rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee filled the air, adding to the relaxed, inviting atmosphere. I opted for a little of both worlds—savouring a freshly cooked omelette, crispy bacon, toast, a bowl of ripe papaya and dragon fruit, and a selection of pastries, all while enjoying the vibrant flavuors and taking in the tranquil view of the river as it meandered by.

Stilt houses above the water

As the ship sailed smoothly through the morning mist, the flooded countryside on either side of the river began to reveal itself: lush greenery, small villages dotting the banks, houses above the water on stilts, and the occasional fisherman casting nets from wooden boats. There was something incredibly peaceful about it. The rhythm of the river, the subtle rocking of the boat—it felt like the world was moving at a slower pace here, in contrast to the hustle and bustle of the cities we had visited earlier on the trip.

Arrival in Kampong Chhnang: The Port of Pottery

Small boat to shore

At 9 a.m., the Toum Toui 2 moored in the middle of the river and we boarded a small wooden boat to take us ashore. It was a quick ride, and within minutes, we were docking at a pier that looked like it had been built to accommodate tourists but still had a rustic, local charm to it. The air here was thick with the scent of earth, humidity, and the faint aroma of burning wood, a reminder that we were far from the comforts of urban life.

Hand made pots

Kampong Chhnang, which translates to "Port of Pottery" in Khmer, is a place where history and craft come together. The city, located in the heart of Cambodia, is famous for its pottery, and as we disembarked, the guides explained that many of the locals still produce handmade pottery using techniques passed down through generations. The town itself had a quiet, sleepy charm to it, but it was clear that craftsmanship was at the heart of this place.

Kampong Chhnang provincial hall

We boarded tuk-tuks that were waiting for us at the pier, ready to take us on a short ride to a small village on the outskirts of Kampong Chhnang that was renowned for its pottery. The ride was bumpy but fun—laughter mixed with the whir of tuk-tuks as we drove past various landmarks, including the Kampong Chhnang provincial hall, a large, ornate building that stood out in stark contrast to the humble surroundings.

Oxen

As we drove through the narrow streets, I couldn't help but notice the small shops and stalls that lined the roads. These were family-run businesses, each one selling handcrafted goods or agricultural products. The vibrant life of the town was juxtaposed with the calm, unhurried pace of life. As we traveled along the rural roads, we passed simple homes, vegetable gardens, and oxen grazing peacefully.

A Visit to Palm Oil Farm

Mr Lye & Guide

Our first stop was at the property of Mr. Lye, a local farmer who welcomed us with a warm smile and an openness to share his knowledge. He was a short man, weathered by years of hard work, his skin tanned from long days spent under the Cambodian sun. Mr. Lye had been running a palm oil business for decades, and he proudly showed us his tall, slender palm trees, each one a source of income for his family.

High up a Palm Tree

One of the most remarkable things about this visit was seeing Mr. Lye skillfully climb one of these towering palm trees. Using nothing but his bare hands and feet, he scaled a bamboo pole up the tree with ease, reaching the top to collect the sap that would later be boiled down into palm oil. Watching him work, it was clear that this was a job that required strength, agility, and an intimate understanding of the land. The skill and precision with which Mr. Lye performed this task left a lasting impression on me, as it was a perfect example of the deep connection between the people and the land they live off.

Pottery at the Heart of Kampong Chhnang

Handcrafting a pot

We then walked to a local pottery studio in the village. This area was home to several talented potters, and we were about to meet a few of them. One artisan, in particular, had been crafting pots from local clay for decades. Her open-air workshop was simple yet functional, and it was clear that she took great pride in her work. What was particularly fascinating to observe was how she shaped perfectly round pots using nothing but her hands—without the aid of a spinning pottery wheel. The motion of her hands was fluid and practiced—each movement seemed to have been perfected over the years. It was a truly impressive demonstration of skill and tradition.

What struck me most about the whole process was the simplicity of it all. There were no fancy machines, no high-tech gadgets—just hands, clay, and a deep knowledge of the craft that had been passed down through generations. Watching her create something so beautiful from a humble lump of earth was a humbling experience.

Fire cooking pot

Next, we met another artisans, who specialized in making fire pots, which are traditionally used for cooking over open flames. Our guide explained that fire pots are an essential part of Cambodian cooking, especially in rural areas, where open fires are still the primary method of cooking. The potters were masters of their craft, and their ability to create these sturdy, functional pots was nothing short of impressive.

As I watched the potters work, I was struck by how much of their livelihood depended on the land and their deep-rooted traditions. It was a reminder that, despite the rapid changes taking place in the world, there are still places where these ancient crafts are alive and well.

Return to Toum Tiou 2 for Lunch

Back to Toum Tiou 2

After our pottery demonstration, we returned to our tuk-tuks for the ride back to the pier. As we passed by various roadside shops, I couldn’t help but notice the little details: the vibrant colors of the market stalls, the women sitting on the side of the road selling fresh fruits, and the children playing in the dirt or traveling with their parents on motorbikes. It was a scene of daily life that felt so different from my own, yet so universal in its quiet simplicity and beauty. It reminded me how, in many ways, the most meaningful moments are found in the simplest of experiences.

Lunch

Once back on board the Toum Tiou 2, we were treated to a delicious lunch in the restaurant. The menu featured a selection of fruit, vegetables, pineapple fritters with honey fresh bread and pasta dishes, including spaghetti with tomato sauce, fettuccine Alfredo, and a creamy carbonara. It felt like a small indulgence to have something so familiar after the day’s activities, and I relished every bite while taking in the views of the river and the surrounding countryside.

Setting Sail for Koh Chen

New port pier

By the afternoon, the Toum Tiou 2 was back on the move, cruising down the river toward our next stop: Koh Chen. As we neared the village, I could see that the boat would be moored at a new pier still under construction. The unfinished pier contrasted with the rustic surroundings, but it was clear that such infrastructure would help bring more tourism to this craft area in the future. Despite the development, the setting remained peaceful, far removed from the bustling ports of larger cities, and still held the charm of a tranquil, authentic destination.

Craft people at work

Once moored, I decided to take a walk with some of the other passengers  through the village , which was known for its silverware craftsmanship. As I wandered through the narrow streets, I saw families working in their homes, carefully shaping intricate silver pieces, each one a testament to the skill and dedication that went into the craft. The silverware was beautiful—delicate, yet strong—and it was clear that this small community took great pride in their work.

Fun together

As I walked further, I crossed a creek where local men were fishing, cooking over an open flame, and enjoying a drink together. It was a simple, peaceful moment that seemed to capture the essence of village life in Cambodia. The air was warm and heavy with the earthy scent of the river, and the sounds of laughter and conversation rose above the gentle murmur of the water. It felt like a snapshot of daily life, untouched by the outside world.

Family travel

I continued my walk, passing small shops selling everything from handcrafted textiles to simple trinkets, and eventually arrived at a small temple. The peaceful atmosphere of the temple, with its golden statues and incense burning in the corners, provided a moment of reflection amid the hustle and bustle of daily life.

A Farewell Celebration

Farewell dinner

Back on board, as evening approached, the atmosphere aboard the Toum Tiou 2 took on a more festive mood. At 7:00 p.m., we gathered in the lounge for a farewell cocktail, a bittersweet occasion as our journey was coming to an end. The crew had prepared a special evening for us, with delicious appetizers and drinks served as we mingled and shared stories of our adventures. The beautiful sunset over the river added to the magic of the moment.

At 7:45 p.m., we sat down to a farewell seafood dinner, a fitting end to the day. The menu featured shrimp cocktail, a rich tomato cream soup, Australian sirloin steak with green pepper sauce, potato gratin, Pad Thai, and a decadent chocolate fondant for dessert. Every dish was expertly prepared, and the flavours were as vibrant as the places we had visited throughout the journey.

As the sun set over the river, I spotted a dragon boat gliding by, its crew practicing for the Dragon Boat Festival happening that weekend.

Dragon Boat

After dinner, the crew put on a lively performance, singing and dancing to traditional Cambodian songs, and they warmly encouraged us to join in. The energy was infectious, and it felt like the perfect way to end our time on the Toum Tiou 2—a celebration of culture, camaraderie, and the shared experience of traveling together.

Final Thoughts

Toum Tiou 2

As the night drew to a close, we gathered our passports and settled any outstanding expenses with the Purser. The sense of closure was palpable, and I couldn't help but feel a twinge of sadness. This cruise had been an incredible journey—one that had introduced me to new cultures, stunning landscapes, and fascinating people. 

With a heart full of memories, I retired to my cabin, reflecting on the day’s experiences. The ship rocked me to sleep as I thought about the incredible stories that would stay with me long after the journey had ended.

Day 8 on the Toum Tiou 2 had been a perfect blend of adventure, culture, and tranquility—a day I would never forget.

Toum Tiou 2

Toum Tiou 2

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