MAGIC MEMORIES ALONG THE MEKONG

CFM Toum Teav

The old wooden runabout chugged towards our ship and our purser, appropriately named “Money” (correct name Monerak) handed a young man a briefcase which contained all the necessary documents to enable us to continue our journey, or at least we hoped it would.

Crossing from Cambodia to Vietnam, the border authorities from both countries are very strict on protocol and correct procedures. The runabout slowed but didn’t stop and took off at speed to the main floating office of each country a half a kilometer away. We were at the border crossing on the CFM Toum Teav cruise from Siem Reap to HCMC. We had rendezvoused at Tan Chau near Chau Doc to complete the formalities.

The ship was at anchor as we waited for the return of our documents with the all-clear to proceed. We waited for four hours as officials from both countries sorted out a problem one of the Belgian passengers had with her passport.

This seven-day, eight-night cruise commenced in Koh Chen a bus ride from our meeting hotel the Regency Angkor in Siem Reap, home of the Angkor Wat complex. When on board we were greeted with a welcome cocktail and crew introduction followed by a relaxed dinner, as we followed the Tonle Sap River heading for Kampong Chnang to witness palm tree processing for sugar. Here we saw the 72 years-old owner of the processing plant, Mr Ry, climb a palm tree nearly 30 meters high wearing shorts and thongs - amazing and dangerous.

Ox Cart Ride

An Ox Cart ride is on the agenda next day as we bump along on the dray beside the river with local children following to the Kampong Tralach Pagoda where there is a ritual blessing by the Senior Monk, a popular procedure for the Khmer people. The blessings are said to bring good fortune and protection. We deviate from the program at sunset when we join the purser and chef and some of the public for a beer at a roadside cart taking photos and singing songs.

Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia and a city of more than three million people is on the banks of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, and can be distinguished by the brown colour of the Tonle Sap and the blueish of the Mekong. The Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, Russian Markets and National Museum of Cambodia are all on the agenda along with the secondary school, Tuol Sleng (S21) the confronting torture centre of the Khmer Rouge

Next day a shore excursion to Sa Dec town to visit the bustling market and check out the “Chinaman’s house” featured in “The Lover” novel by Marguerite Duras subsequently adapted for a movie. Follows is a visit to a huge brick and pottery operation and then a rice paper, popped rice and coconut candy family operation in Vinh Long.

Cruising Viet style

On day seven, it is a small boat trip to Unicorn Island and hear some folk music and all aboard the four-seater wooden canoe for a 20-minute trip up the winding tributary covered by water coconut trees being masterly rowed by two beautiful and energetic ladies, nothing short of 75 years. That afternoon we cruise through the man-made Cho Gao Canal to Vam Co Dong river, leading to Saigon River to HCMC.

During the cruise we had several impromptu evening concerts on the top deck with the passengers and crew singing their national songs. “ Ït certainly brough everyone together to make a memorable cruise” commented one of the Belgian passengers who with his wife contributed with a splendid rock and roll dancing exhibition.

The Captain’s Farewell dinner on the final night was a highlight where the crew sang and said their final farewells.

Farewell

The boutique-size 10 berth CFM Toum Teav riverboat reflects a bygone era of traditional river cruising in harmony with historic Khmer culture. Built of teak with the safety of a steel hull, passengers relax in privacy, comfort and safety with delicious meals and friendly service. Features include cosy air-conditioned double cabins with private en-suite bathrooms, large lounge areas, panoramic viewing and strolling spaces, and serviced bar-restaurant.

CF Mekong River Cruises is the longest operating cruise line on the Mekong. It operates five ships and is very competitively priced.

Check out its New Discovery Tour on Toum Tiou 2 – cfmekong.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Toum-Tiou-2-New-Discovery-Brochure-October-2023.pdf office@cfmekong.com
* Written by John Savage aboard the TT1