Aizome: The Art of Pursuing a Breathtaking Blue —Naoko and Kota Omae
Indigo is believed to be the oldest plant-based dye in human history, discovered and utilized by ancient civilizations around the world. Japan also has its own centuries-old history of aizome (indigo dyeing). Indigo was popularly worn by the samurais as it symbolized good luck, and in the Meiji period (1868-1912) the color was internationally referred to as Japan Blue. In contemporary Japan the more convenient synthetic dye has become mainstream, but the natural vivid blue is still appreciated by artisans around the country who practice traditional dyeing methods to achieve those beautiful hues.
Meet aizome artist Naoko Omae, who found her love for Japanese indigo dyeing after studying fine arts in California. She currently lives in a traditional thatched-roof house in the mountainous Miyama town, where she makes “everyday art” with her spouse, Kota.
The magic behind the breathing indigo
There are different types of indigo plants depending on the country or region. The Japanese indigo plant, also known as dyer’s knotweed, is the most common in Japan. The blue pigment is found in the leaves.
The Japanese aizome technique that involves fermentation in the process was devised some 200 years ago in the Edo period (1603-1867). The unique method is telling of the people’s wisdom and creativity, making the most out of limited resources to enjoy fashion.
Even though indigo dyes can be made with fresh indigo leaves, it is less common due to its limited availability. Which is why the wise invented a technique that involves fermenting the dye ingredients using lye produced from wood ash. “The process requires a lot of time, effort and love, but once the indigo dye is made, the solution can be used multiple times. You can dip your fabric as many times as you want and experiment with light and dark hues or different levels of richness,” explains Naoko.
The day we visited the studio was the first day of dyeing with the indigo vat Naoko had prepared ten days prior. She works with the support of Kota, her partner and African drummer. We peered into the built-in ceramic vat inside the doma (earth-paved area) and saw a cluster of glistening blue bubbles floating in the center. According to Naoko, this phenomenon is called an indigo flower—it is a sign that indicates that the dye is fermented enough and ready to use.
When Naoko dyes fabric, it’s like watching magic. First, she gently submerges the fabric inside the indigo vat and after ensuring that the fabric is evenly and entirely soaked in the dye, she carefully removes it from the vat and rinses it in a tub of water. What happens is that the dye oxidizes inside the water, changing color into a breathtaking blue in seconds. The color is so fresh and pure that watching the process is almost like a soul cleansing experience.
When dyeing garments, the two indigo dyers repeat the same process for at least seven times to build up color. For art pieces, they sometimes dye them for more than 20 times. “The cumulative process allows the blue to become richer and more saturated. After the indigo dye is adhered to the fabric, there’s no worry for the color to bleed or rub off. Every time this beautiful color reveals itself in front of me—I’m in awe,” says Naoko, as she admires her freshly dyed piece.
The lifespan of the indigo vat prepared by the duo is anywhere from two to six months and during that timeframe, they can use it to dye fabric as many times as they want. However, since their indigo dye is an organic solution made of natural substances, they let it rest for a day after using it. According to the couple, the bacteria in the indigo vat can get tired too and overworking it hinders its power to produce beautiful colors. Their practice is not about efficiency or productivity, but rather about respecting the organic rhythm of natural indigo.
The Japanese aizome technique that involves fermentation in the process was devised some 200 years ago in the Edo period (1603-1867). The unique method is telling of the people’s wisdom and creativity, making the most out of limited resources to enjoy fashion.
Even though indigo dyes can be made with fresh indigo leaves, it is less common due to its limited availability. Which is why the wise invented a technique that involves fermenting the dye ingredients using lye produced from wood ash. “The process requires a lot of time, effort and love, but once the indigo dye is made, the solution can be used multiple times. You can dip your fabric as many times as you want and experiment with light and dark hues or different levels of richness,” explains Naoko.
The day we visited the studio was the first day of dyeing with the indigo vat Naoko had prepared ten days prior. She works with the support of Kota, her partner and African drummer. We peered into the built-in ceramic vat inside the doma (earth-paved area) and saw a cluster of glistening blue bubbles floating in the center. According to Naoko, this phenomenon is called an indigo flower—it is a sign that indicates that the dye is fermented enough and ready to use.
When Naoko dyes fabric, it’s like watching magic. First, she gently submerges the fabric inside the indigo vat and after ensuring that the fabric is evenly and entirely soaked in the dye, she carefully removes it from the vat and rinses it in a tub of water. What happens is that the dye oxidizes inside the water, changing color into a breathtaking blue in seconds. The color is so fresh and pure that watching the process is almost like a soul cleansing experience.
When dyeing garments, the two indigo dyers repeat the same process for at least seven times to build up color. For art pieces, they sometimes dye them for more than 20 times. “The cumulative process allows the blue to become richer and more saturated. After the indigo dye is adhered to the fabric, there’s no worry for the color to bleed or rub off. Every time this beautiful color reveals itself in front of me—I’m in awe,” says Naoko, as she admires her freshly dyed piece.
The lifespan of the indigo vat prepared by the duo is anywhere from two to six months and during that timeframe, they can use it to dye fabric as many times as they want. However, since their indigo dye is an organic solution made of natural substances, they let it rest for a day after using it. According to the couple, the bacteria in the indigo vat can get tired too and overworking it hinders its power to produce beautiful colors. Their practice is not about efficiency or productivity, but rather about respecting the organic rhythm of natural indigo.
Learn more about the Omaes’ work: https://www.instagram.com/ow_indigo/
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